The dish to eat in Florence · Italy

Bistecca alla fiorentina

Bistecca alla fiorentina in Florence

Photo: mike packard, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons · source

A huge T-bone of Tuscan beef, grilled over hot coals, served rare with salt, olive oil and lemon.

Florence's feast: a two-finger-thick T-bone, seared over embers, sliced rare at the table and shared. It's sold by weight and never cooked past rare.

Where to eat itCook it at home

Where to eat it: the best three in Florence

  1. Trattoria Sostanza

    Via del Porcellana, near Santa Maria Novella

    Order: Bistecca and the butter chicken (petti di pollo al burro)

    A narrow 1869 trattoria with shared tables; book days ahead.

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  2. Buca Lapi

    Via del Trebbio, under Palazzo Antinori

    Order: The bistecca, grilled on the open coals

    A cellar restaurant open since 1880 that the city still trusts for steak.

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  3. Trattoria Mario

    Via Rosina, by the San Lorenzo market

    Order: Bistecca on Fridays and Saturdays, ribollita any day

    A lunch-only market canteen with communal tables and a family at the grill since 1953.

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All three are on Chef Amazing’s list The best bistecca alla fiorentina in Florence, which you can save and take with you.

Cook it at home: Bistecca alla fiorentina

Serves 3 to 4Time 1 hr 30 min (mostly resting and the fire)

The rules are simple and strict: a very thick porterhouse at room temperature, a hot hardwood fire, salt only after cooking, and rare inside. Let the steak stand on its bone at the end to warm the center.

Pans and tools

You’ll need

Steps

  1. Take the steak out of the fridge 2 hours before cooking so it reaches room temperature all the way through. Pat it very dry. Do not salt it.
  2. Light a full chimney of lump charcoal and let it burn to glowing embers with a thin coat of ash, 25 to 30 minutes. Spread in a thick even bed. Set the grate 3 to 4 inches above the coals. You should only manage your hand over it for 2 seconds.
  3. Lay the steak on the grate and leave it alone for 5 to 6 minutes, until a dark brown crust forms and it releases easily.
  4. Turn it once and cook the second side another 5 to 6 minutes.
  5. Stand the steak upright on its T-bone for 5 to 8 minutes, moving it so the bone, not the meat, sits over the hottest spot. This heats the meat near the bone. Pull it when the thickest part reads 115 to 120F (46 to 49C).
  6. Rest the steak on a board 10 minutes.
  7. Cut the strip and the tenderloin away from the bone, then slice each across the grain into 1/2-inch (1 cm) slices. Arrange them back around the bone on a warm platter.
  8. Now season generously with sea salt and pepper, and drizzle with olive oil. Serve with lemon, beans and arugula.
Chef’s tips

In Florence, rare (al sangue) is the only way. If you need it more done, cook it a little longer standing on the bone, not on its sides.

A steak this thick needs a real fire; a gas grill rarely gets hot enough. Use a ripping hot cast-iron pan and a 400F oven if you must.

Ask the butcher for the steak cut from the middle of the short loin, with a large tenderloin.

Contains: None.

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Picked October 2026 from what locals, food writers and the city’s own guides agree on. Places change; confirm hours before you go.

Chef Amazing · Will Travel for Food · Florence · The dish in every city