81 cities

The dish in every city

Every great food city has one dish you shouldn’t leave without eating. Here it is for each of ours: the dish, the three best places for it, and a recipe to make it when you get home.

Europe

Pulpo á feira

A Coruña

Pulpo á feiraTender boiled octopus cut with scissors onto a wooden plate, with olive oil, coarse salt, paprika and boiled potatoes
Stegt flæsk med persillesovs

Aarhus

Stegt flæsk med persillesovsCrisp fried slices of pork belly with boiled potatoes and a creamy parsley sauce
Cataplana de marisco

Algarve

Cataplana de mariscoClams, prawns and fish steamed with chorizo, tomato, peppers and white wine in a sealed copper pan
Appeltaart

Amsterdam

AppeltaartDutch apple pie: a deep, crumbly butter crust packed with cinnamon apples and raisins, with a lattice top and whipped cream
Souvlaki

Athens

SouvlakiCharcoal-grilled pork skewers, eaten on the stick or wrapped in warm pita with tomato, onion and yogurt
La bomba

Barcelona

La bombaA fried ball of mashed potato around spiced beef, topped with garlic aioli and hot red sauce
Currywurst

Berlin

CurrywurstSliced fried sausage drowned in curry-spiced ketchup, dusted with curry powder and served with fries
Bacalao al pil-pil

Bilbao

Bacalao al pil-pilSalt cod cooked gently in olive oil with garlic and chili, the oil swirled until the fish's gelatin turns it into a pale golden sauce
Tagliatelle al ragù

Bologna

Tagliatelle al ragùFresh egg pasta ribbons with a slow meat sauce of beef and pork, a little tomato, milk and wine
Smørrebrød

Copenhagen

SmørrebrødDanish open sandwiches on dense rye bread, piled with pickled herring, roast beef, egg and shrimp, or fried plaice
Bistecca alla fiorentina

Florence

Bistecca alla fiorentinaA huge T-bone of Tuscan beef, grilled over hot coals, served rare with salt, olive oil and lemon
Fabada asturiana

Gijón

Fabada asturianaBig white fabe beans slow-cooked with chorizo, morcilla blood sausage, pork belly and saffron
Räksmörgås

Gothenburg

RäksmörgåsA shrimp sandwich: a mountain of hand-peeled cold-water shrimp on bread with egg, mayonnaise, lettuce and dill
Pastel de nata

Lisbon

Pastel de nataA small custard tart in crackly puff pastry, scorched on top and eaten warm with cinnamon and powdered sugar
Champis

Logroño

ChampisGriddled mushroom caps stacked on bread with a garlic, parsley and oil sauce, topped with a tiny shrimp
Fish and chips

London

Fish and chipsHaddock or cod in crisp beer batter, thick-cut chips, mushy peas, salt and malt vinegar
Quenelle de brochet

Lyon

Quenelle de brochetA light, soufflé-like dumpling of pike, baked in a rich crayfish (Nantua) sauce
Cocido madrileño

Madrid

Cocido madrileñoA slow pot of chickpeas, beef, chicken, pork and chorizo, served in turns: the broth with noodles first, then the chickpeas, vegetables and meats
Falafel

Malmö

FalafelCrisp chickpea fritters in pita with salad, pickles, tahini and chili sauce
Risotto alla milanese

Milan

Risotto alla milaneseSaffron risotto, golden yellow and creamy, finished with butter and Parmigiano; often served with osso buco
Pizza margherita

Naples

Pizza margheritaSoft, blistered wood-fired pizza with San Marzano tomato, fior di latte, basil and olive oil
Brunsviger

Odense

BrunsvigerA soft, yeasted coffee cake from Funen, with pools of brown sugar and butter melted into the top
Cachopo

Oviedo

CachopoTwo big veal fillets sandwiching ham and melting cheese, breaded and fried, served with chips and peppers
Pimientos del piquillo rellenos

Pamplona

Pimientos del piquillo rellenosSweet, wood-roasted Navarra peppers stuffed with salt cod and bathed in a creamy pepper sauce
Croissant au beurre

Paris

Croissant au beurreA flaky, buttery, crescent-shaped pastry made by folding butter into yeasted dough dozens of times
Francesinha

Porto

FrancesinhaA huge sandwich of steak, ham and sausage under melted cheese, drowned in a hot, spicy beer-and-tomato sauce, usually with a fried egg and fries
Cacio e pepe

Rome

Cacio e pepePasta tossed with pecorino Romano, black pepper and starchy pasta water into a creamy sauce
Surinamese roti

Rotterdam

Surinamese rotiA soft, flaky flatbread with chicken curry, potatoes, long beans and a boiled egg, eaten by tearing the roti and scooping
Gilda

San Sebastián

GildaThe original pintxo: a skewer of anchovy, green olive and pickled guindilla pepper
Rabas

Santander

RabasStrips of squid in a light, crisp flour coating, fried and eaten with lemon
Tarta de Santiago

Santiago de Compostela

Tarta de SantiagoA moist, flourless almond cake with lemon and cinnamon, dusted with sugar around the cross of Saint James
Köttbullar

Stockholm

KöttbullarSwedish meatballs in cream gravy, with mashed potatoes, lingonberries and quick-pickled cucumber
Rijsttafel

The Hague

RijsttafelAn Indonesian 'rice table': rice surrounded by a dozen or more small dishes, from beef rendang and satay to sambals and pickles
Wiener Schnitzel

Vienna

Wiener SchnitzelA thin veal cutlet in a puffy golden breadcrumb crust, fried in butter, with lemon, potato salad and lingonberries
Oysters

Vigo

OystersRaw Galician oysters, opened to order and eaten standing up with a squeeze of lemon and a glass of Albariño
Goxua

Vitoria-Gasteiz

GoxuaA layered dessert in a small dish: whipped cream, rum-soaked sponge and pastry cream, crowned with burnt caramel

Asia

Tom yum goong

Bangkok

Tom yum goongHot and sour prawn soup with lemongrass, galangal, lime leaf, chili and lime
Mapo tofu

Chengdu

Mapo tofuSoft tofu in a fiery, numbing sauce of chili bean paste, ground beef and Sichuan pepper
Khao soi

Chiang Mai

Khao soiCurry noodle soup with coconut milk and chicken, topped with crisp fried noodles, eaten with pickled mustard greens, shallots and lime
Butter chicken

Delhi

Butter chickenTandoori chicken simmered in a silky tomato, butter and cream sauce scented with fenugreek
Char kway teow

George Town

Char kway teowFlat rice noodles stir-fried over fierce heat with prawns, cockles, Chinese sausage, egg, chives and bean sprouts
Phở bò

Hanoi

Phở bòBeef noodle soup: a clear broth simmered from bones with charred onion, ginger and star anise, over rice noodles and thin slices of beef
Bánh mì

Ho Chi Minh City

Bánh mìA light, crackly baguette filled with pâté, cold cuts, pickled carrot and daikon, cucumber, cilantro and chili
Wonton noodles

Hong Kong

Wonton noodlesSpringy egg noodles and shrimp wontons in a clear broth of dried flounder and shrimp roe
Nasi lemak

Kuala Lumpur

Nasi lemakCoconut rice with fiery sambal, crisp anchovies, peanuts, cucumber and egg, often with fried chicken
Yudofu

Kyoto

YudofuSilky tofu warmed in kombu broth at the table, dipped in soy with scallion, ginger and yuzu
Vada pav

Mumbai

Vada pavA spiced potato fritter in a soft bun with garlic chutney, green chutney and a fried green chili
Okonomiyaki

Osaka

OkonomiyakiA savory griddle pancake of cabbage and batter with pork belly, brushed with sauce and mayo and topped with bonito and seaweed
Pyeongyang naengmyeon

Seoul

Pyeongyang naengmyeonBuckwheat noodles in an ice-cold, clear beef broth with radish kimchi, pear, beef slices and a boiled egg
Xiaolongbao

Shanghai

XiaolongbaoDelicate steamed dumplings filled with pork and hot soup, eaten with black vinegar and ginger
Hainanese chicken rice

Singapore

Hainanese chicken riceSilky poached chicken with rice cooked in chicken fat and broth, chili-garlic sauce, ginger and dark soy
Beef noodle soup

Taipei

Beef noodle soupThick wheat noodles in a deep red-braised beef broth with chunks of tender shank, pickled mustard greens and scallion
Tonkatsu

Tokyo

TonkatsuA thick pork cutlet in light panko, deep-fried until crisp and juicy, with shredded cabbage, rice, miso soup and tonkatsu sauce

North America

Lobster roll

Boston

Lobster rollSweet chunks of fresh lobster in a buttered, toasted split-top roll, either cold with a little mayo or warm with melted butter
Italian beef

Chicago

Italian beefThin-sliced roast beef soaked in garlicky, herby jus, piled in a long roll with sweet peppers or spicy giardiniera
Korean barbecue (galbi)

Los Angeles

Korean barbecue (galbi)Beef short ribs marinated in soy, pear and garlic, grilled at the table and eaten in lettuce with banchan
Tacos al pastor

Mexico City

Tacos al pastorPork marinated in chilies and achiote, cooked on a vertical spit, shaved onto small corn tortillas with pineapple, onion and cilantro
Cuban sandwich

Miami

Cuban sandwichRoast pork, ham, Swiss cheese, pickles and mustard pressed hot and flat in Cuban bread
Smoked meat

Montreal

Smoked meatBrisket cured with spices, smoked and steamed, sliced hand-thick onto rye with yellow mustard
Gumbo

New Orleans

GumboA dark roux stew with the 'holy trinity' (onion, celery, pepper), andouille and chicken or seafood, over rice
Bagel with lox

New York City

Bagel with loxA boiled-then-baked bagel with cream cheese, silky cured salmon, capers, red onion and tomato
Mole negro

Oaxaca

Mole negroA dark, glossy sauce of burnt chilies, spices, nuts, seeds, plantain and chocolate, over turkey or chicken
Cheesesteak

Philadelphia

CheesesteakThin-shaved ribeye griddled with onions, folded with melted cheese (Whiz, provolone or American) into a long roll
Mission burrito

San Francisco

Mission burritoA huge steamed flour tortilla wrapped around grilled meat, rice, beans, salsa, cheese, crema and guacamole, then foiled
Peameal bacon sandwich

Toronto

Peameal bacon sandwichThick slices of cornmeal-crusted, brined pork loin, griddled and piled on a soft bun with mustard
Dim sum

Vancouver

Dim sumSmall plates of Cantonese dumplings and buns with tea: shrimp har gow, pork siu mai, char siu bao, rice rolls

South America

Africa & Middle East

Oceania

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