Cao lau

Cook it at home: Hoi An cao lau with char siu pork, crisp crackers and herbs

You cannot get Ba Le well water or Cham Island ash at home, so this version gets the chew from baked baking soda and thick fresh noodles. The three things that make a Hoi An bowl are the sweet roast pork, a small amount of strong broth and a pile of fresh herbs. Do not drown it: cao lau is served nearly dry.

Pans and tools

• Large pot
• Roasting rack and tray
• Thermometer
• Deep pan for frying
• Fine strainer

You’ll need

• For the pork: 1 1/4 lb (600 g) boneless pork shoulder, cut into two long strips
• 3 tbsp soy sauce
• 2 tbsp honey, plus 1 tbsp for brushing
• 1 tbsp hoisin sauce
• 4 garlic cloves, grated
• 2 shallots, grated
• 1 1/2 tsp Chinese five-spice powder
• 1 tsp ground black pepper
• For the broth: 1 lb (450 g) pork bones or neck bones
• 1 qt (1 l) water
• 1 star anise
• 2 shallots, halved and charred in a dry pan
• 1 thumb-sized piece ginger, smashed
• 1 tbsp fish sauce
• For the noodles: 14 oz (400 g) fresh thick udon-style noodles, or thick dried rice noodles
• 1 tsp baking soda, baked 1 hour at 250F (120C) to make it more alkaline
• 1/2 tsp ground turmeric
• To serve: 2 big handfuls bean sprouts
• 1 big bunch mixed herbs: mint, Thai basil, perilla and lettuce leaves
• 12 wonton wrappers, cut into 1/2-inch (1 cm) strips
• Neutral oil for frying
• Chilli sauce, lime wedges and fish sauce at the table

Steps

1. Marinate the pork. Mix the soy sauce, 2 tbsp honey, hoisin, garlic, shallots, five-spice and pepper. Turn the pork strips in it, cover and chill for at least 4 hours, ideally overnight.
2. Make the broth. Cover the bones with cold water, bring to a boil and boil 5 minutes. Drain, rinse the bones and the pot. Return the bones with the 1 litre of fresh water, star anise, charred shallots, ginger and fish sauce. Simmer gently for 90 minutes, skimming the scum, until the broth tastes meaty and a little sweet.
3. Heat the oven to 400F (200C). Lift the pork out of the marinade and put it on a rack over a tray. Roast 25 minutes. Brush with the extra honey, turn the strips and roast 10 to 15 minutes more, until the edges are charred and a thermometer reads 165F (74C). Rest 10 minutes, then slice 1/4 inch (6 mm) thick.
4. Strain the broth and reduce it in a clean pot over high heat for about 15 minutes, until you have 1 cup (240 ml) of dark, strong liquid. Keep it hot.
5. Fry the crackers. Heat 1 inch (2.5 cm) of oil to 350F (175C). Fry the wonton strips in two batches for 30 to 45 seconds, until golden and blistered. Drain on paper towels.
6. Make the noodle bath. Dissolve the baked baking soda and the turmeric in 1 cup (240 ml) warm water. Drop the noodles into a large pot of boiling water for 2 minutes if fresh (4 to 5 if dried), then lift them into the bath for 1 minute and drain. They should be yellow and springy. Do not rinse.
7. Blanch the bean sprouts in the same boiling water for 10 seconds and drain.
8. Assemble each bowl: noodles first, then a layer of sprouts, a fan of pork, a big handful of torn herbs and a spoon or two of hot broth. Top with crackers and serve at once with chilli, lime and fish sauce.

Contains: ['gluten', 'soy', 'shellfish (fish sauce is fish, check wrappers)'].

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