The dish to eat in Kanazawa · Japan
Jibuni

Photo: pelican from Tokyo, Japan, cc by-sa 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons · source
Kaga's duck stew: thin flour-dusted slices of duck simmered with wheat gluten, shiitake and greens in a sweet, savory dashi, with a dab of wasabi on top.
Jibuni is the dish Kanazawa served to samurai and still serves at weddings. The flour on the duck thickens the broth into a glossy sauce, and the wheat gluten drinks it up.
Where to eat it: the best three in Kanazawa
Tsubajin
TeramachiOrder: The kaiseki lunch with jibuni
Kanazawa's oldest Japanese restaurant, 270 years old, above the Sai River.
Kagaya Kanazawa
Kanazawa StationOrder: A gozen set with jibuni
A casual set-meal room at the station, open from 11:00 to 21:00.
Dining Tsuzumi, Hotel Kanazawa
Kanazawa StationOrder: The HORIKAWA kaiseki, jibuni as the warm dish
A 10-course dinner at 8,000 yen from April 2026.
All three are on Chef Amazing’s list The best jibuni in Kanazawa, which you can save and take with you.
Tell Chef when, and he emails you this jibuni recipe the Sunday before your trip, with the place in Kanazawa that makes the best one. Learn it at home, then eat the real thing and compare.
Cook it at home: Kaga jibuni, duck simmered with wheat gluten and shiitake
Make a clean dashi first, because the sauce is mostly dashi. Dust the duck with flour only when it goes in the pot, and keep the simmer low so the slices stay tender and the sauce turns glossy rather than gluey.
Pans and tools
- Medium pot
- Wide shallow pot with a lid
- Fine sieve and paper towels
- Sharp knife
You’ll need
- For the dashi: 10 g (1/3 oz) kombu, 600 ml (2 1/2 cups) cold water, 15 g (1/2 oz) bonito flakes
- 350 g (12 oz) duck breast, skin on, or boneless chicken thighs
- 4 pieces dried wheat gluten (fu), about 25 g (1 oz) total. Use sudare-fu or kuruma-fu if you can find them
- 4 fresh shiitake, stems removed
- 1 small bunch (about 150 g) spinach or komatsuna
- 2 tbsp plain flour, for dusting
- 3 tbsp sake
- 3 tbsp mirin
- 2 1/2 tbsp light soy sauce
- 2 tsp sugar
- 1/4 tsp salt, for the greens' water
- Fresh wasabi, or good paste from a tube, to finish
Steps
- Dashi: put the kombu and cold water in a pot and leave 30 minutes. Heat slowly over medium-low for about 10 minutes until tiny bubbles rise at the edges of the pot, about 140F (60C). Lift out the kombu before the water boils.
- Bring the water to a bare simmer, add the bonito flakes, turn off the heat and leave 2 minutes until they sink. Strain through a paper-towel-lined sieve. You need about 450 ml (scant 2 cups).
- Soak the fu in cold water for 10 minutes until soft and spongy. Squeeze out the water gently and cut into 1.5 cm (1/2 in) slices.
- Cut a shallow cross in each shiitake cap. Boil a pot of water with the salt, blanch the spinach 30 seconds until bright green, plunge into cold water, squeeze dry and cut into 4 cm (1 1/2 in) lengths.
- Slice the duck against the grain into pieces about 5 mm (1/4 in) thick and 4 cm (1 1/2 in) long. Pat dry. Toss the slices in the flour just before cooking, then shake off the excess.
- Put the dashi, sake, mirin, soy sauce and sugar in a wide pot and bring to a gentle simmer. Add the shiitake and fu and cook 5 minutes until the mushrooms are soft.
- Lay the duck slices in one at a time so they do not clump. Simmer very gently for 3 to 4 minutes, turning once, until the pink is gone and the broth turns glossy and lightly thick. Skim any foam.
- Warm the spinach in the broth for 30 seconds. Divide the duck, fu and mushrooms among shallow bowls, spoon over the sauce until it just coats a spoon, and put a dab of wasabi on top. Serve at once.
Never boil hard once the duck is in. A hard boil toughens the meat and makes the sauce cloudy.
The dashi can be made a day ahead. Cook the stew just before serving.
No fu: add a few cubes of firm tofu fried in a little oil, or simply leave it out.
Chicken thigh works if duck is hard to find. Cook it 5 minutes.
Contains: ['gluten', 'soy', 'fish'].
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More in Kanazawa
The dish in every cityWhere to eat in KanazawaPicked October 2026 from what locals, food writers and the city’s own guides agree on. Places change; confirm hours before you go.
Chef Amazing · Will Travel for Food · Kanazawa · The dish in every city