The dish to eat in Madrid · Spain
Cocido madrileño

Photo: Smnt, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons · source
A slow pot of chickpeas, beef, chicken, pork and chorizo, served in turns: the broth with noodles first, then the chickpeas, vegetables and meats.
Madrid's winter ritual is a three-course meal from one pot, called vuelcos: soup first, then chickpeas and vegetables, then the meats. Lunch takes the whole afternoon.
Where to eat it: the best three in Madrid
Lhardy
Carrera de San Jerónimo, near SolOrder: Cocido madrileño in the upstairs dining rooms
Open since 1839, the grand old house of cocido; downstairs you can sip the broth from a silver urn.
La Bola
Calle de la Bola, near the Royal PalaceOrder: Cocido cooked in individual clay pots over wood
The same family since 1870, each pot cooked separately for hours over a wood fire.
Malacatín
Calle de la Ruda, La LatinaOrder: The cocido 'de la casa', and come hungry
A tavern from 1895 famous for enormous, home-style cocido.
All three are on Chef Amazing’s list The best cocido madrileño in Madrid, which you can save and take with you.
Cook it at home: Cocido madrileño
Soak the chickpeas overnight. Everything simmers gently together; the chorizo and cabbage cook separately so the broth stays clean. Serve in three vuelcos (turns).
Pans and tools
- Very large stockpot (at least 10 quarts)
- Mesh bag or cheesecloth for the chickpeas
- Two extra saucepans
- Skimmer
You’ll need
- 1 lb (450 g) dried chickpeas, soaked overnight in water with 1 tsp salt
- 1 1/2 lb (680 g) beef shank or brisket in one piece
- 1/2 free-range chicken (or 4 thighs)
- 8 oz (225 g) slab pancetta or salt pork (tocino) in one piece
- 1 ham bone or 4 oz (115 g) serrano ham end
- 2 beef marrow bones
- 2 Spanish chorizos (about 8 oz / 225 g total) and 1 morcilla (blood sausage), optional
- 4 medium potatoes, peeled
- 3 carrots, peeled
- 1 small Savoy cabbage, cut into wedges
- 3 garlic cloves, 2 tbsp olive oil, 1 tsp sweet pimentón
- 4 oz (115 g) thin fideo noodles (or angel hair broken into short pieces)
- 2 1/2 tsp salt
- To serve: tomato sauce, pickled guindilla peppers, crusty bread
Steps
- Put the beef, chicken, pancetta, ham bone and marrow bones in a very large pot with 5 quarts (4.7 l) cold water. Bring slowly to a boil, skimming off the foam for 10 minutes until the broth is clean.
- Drain the chickpeas, put them in a mesh bag or tie them in cheesecloth (so they're easy to lift out), and add to the boiling pot. The water must be boiling when they go in or they toughen.
- Lower to a gentle simmer, partly cover, and cook 2 1/2 hours. Top up with boiling water if the level drops below the chickpeas, never cold.
- Add the carrots, potatoes and salt and simmer 30 to 40 minutes more, until the chickpeas are creamy and the potatoes tender.
- Meanwhile, simmer the chorizo and morcilla in a separate pan of water for 20 minutes (they stain the broth if cooked in the pot). In another pot, boil the cabbage in salted water 12 minutes, drain, then sauté with the garlic, olive oil and pimentón for 3 minutes.
- Strain off about 8 cups (2 l) of broth into a saucepan, bring to a boil, add the noodles and cook 3 to 4 minutes. Taste for salt.
- First vuelco: serve the soup with noodles.
- Second vuelco: lift out the chickpeas, potatoes, carrots and cabbage onto a platter, with a drizzle of olive oil, tomato sauce and pickled peppers alongside.
- Third vuelco: carve the beef, chicken, pancetta, chorizo and morcilla onto another platter, with the marrow bones for spreading on bread.
Use Spanish chickpeas (garbanzos de Madrigal or Fuentesaúco) if you can find them; they turn creamy.
Leftovers become ropa vieja: fry the meats and chickpeas with onion the next day.
Never add cold water to the pot: it shocks and toughens the chickpeas.
Contains: Wheat.
More in Madrid
The dish in every cityWhere to eat in MadridPicked October 2026 from what locals, food writers and the city’s own guides agree on. Places change; confirm hours before you go.
Chef Amazing · Will Travel for Food · Madrid · The dish in every city