Mole negro

Cook it at home: Mole negro oaxaqueño

Long, but each step is simple: toast, char, soak, fry, blend, and simmer. The black color comes from chilies and their seeds toasted until black (in a well-ventilated kitchen). Mole is better the next day.

Pans and tools

• Large heavy skillet or comal
• Large heavy pot
• Blender
• Fine-mesh sieve

You’ll need

• 4 oz (115 g) chilhuacle negro or mulato chilies, 2 oz (55 g) pasilla chilies, 2 oz (55 g) guajillo chilies, stemmed and seeded (keep the seeds)
• 2 dried chipotle chilies
• 1/2 cup (120 ml) lard or oil, divided
• 1/2 white onion and 6 garlic cloves, unpeeled
• 2 ripe tomatoes and 4 tomatillos, husked
• 1/4 cup (35 g) sesame seeds, 1/4 cup (35 g) almonds, 1/4 cup (35 g) peanuts, 2 tbsp raisins
• 1 very ripe plantain (black skin), peeled and sliced
• 1 corn tortilla and 1 slice stale bread
• 1 cinnamon stick (Mexican canela), 4 cloves, 6 allspice berries, 1/2 tsp black peppercorns, 1 tsp dried oregano, 1/2 tsp dried thyme, 2 avocado leaves (optional)
• 3 oz (85 g) Mexican chocolate (Oaxacan if you find it), chopped
• 2 tbsp sugar, 1 tbsp salt, plus more to taste
• 1 turkey breast, or 2 whole chickens cut into pieces, poached in water with onion and garlic for 45 minutes (keep 8 cups / 2 l of the broth)
• Warm tortillas and white rice, to serve

Steps

1. In a dry heavy skillet over medium heat, toast the chilies in batches, pressing flat, until blackened in spots and very fragrant, about 1 minute per side. Soak them in hot water 30 minutes. Toast the chili seeds until completely black (open a window), then soak them in cold water 10 minutes and drain.
2. Char the onion, garlic, tomatoes and tomatillos on the dry skillet until blackened in spots and soft, 10 to 12 minutes. Peel the garlic.
3. In 2 tbsp lard, fry the sesame, almonds and peanuts until golden; lift out. Fry the raisins until plump, then the plantain until browned, then the tortilla and bread until crisp, each separately.
4. Toast the cinnamon, cloves, allspice and peppercorns in the dry pan 1 minute, with the oregano and thyme for the last 10 seconds.
5. Blend the drained chilies and seeds with 2 cups of broth until very smooth; press through a sieve. Separately blend everything else (vegetables, nuts, fruit, tortilla, bread, spices) with 2 cups broth until smooth, and sieve.
6. Heat 4 tbsp lard in a large heavy pot over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add the chili purée carefully (it spits) and fry, stirring, 10 minutes until it darkens and thickens.
7. Add the second purée and cook 15 minutes more, stirring often. Add the chocolate, sugar, salt, avocado leaves and 3 cups more broth.
8. Simmer gently for 1 to 1 1/2 hours, stirring every 10 minutes, until thick, glossy and black, and it coats a spoon heavily. Thin with broth as needed. Taste: balance bitter, sweet and salt.
9. Add the poached turkey or chicken and simmer 15 minutes. Serve with rice and warm tortillas, scattered with toasted sesame.

Contains: Sesame, tree nuts, peanuts, wheat, milk (chocolate may contain).