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Hanoi · Vietnam

The Hanoi food cheat sheet

One page from Chef Amazing · November 2026
Phở bò
Photo: Codename5281, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

The dish to eat

Beef noodle soup: a clear broth simmered from bones with charred onion, ginger and star anise, over rice noodles and thin slices of beef.

Best at Phở Gia Truyền (Phở Bát Đàn), 49 Bát Đàn, Old Quarter. Get: Phở tái nạm (rare beef and brisket)

Five places, and what to order

  1. Xới Cơmfamily-run · Láng Hạ / Đống Đa (Lane 36 Láng Hạ)
    Get: Whatever the daily home-style set is; water spinach with garlic, fried tofu with scallion
  2. Phở Gà Nguyệtcounter · Hoàn Kiếm
    Get: Phở gà with thigh meat, or thigh mixed with wing
  3. Phở Tiếncounter · Ba Đình
    Get: Chicken phở with offal toppings
  4. Phở Khôi Hóifor phở · Hoàn Kiếm
    Get: Beef phở, choosing your doneness
  5. Bún Chả Tuyếtfor bún chả · Ba Đình
    Get: Bún chả with saw-coriander-coated patties

The market

Covered / street market. Northern Vietnamese snacks, dried goods

The line worth it

Get: Phở bò tái (rare beef)

Expect: Morning lines, order and pay first. Beat it: Go before 7am.

In season this November

Com lang Vong (young green rice) · Da Lat persimmons and Doan Hung pomelos

How it works here

Tip: Not expected at street stalls; leave about 5-10% at sit-down restaurants.

Book: Street food is walk-in, first come; book only the upscale places.

When locals eat: Pho and banh mi go early (6-9am) and sell out; dinner from 6pm.

Want the whole city?

The Hanoi food map, every place pinned ›The full Hanoi food guide ›Cook Phở bò at home ›Ask Chef anything about Hanoi ›Get a sheet for another city ›

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