The Hanoi food cheat sheet

The dish to eat
Beef noodle soup: a clear broth simmered from bones with charred onion, ginger and star anise, over rice noodles and thin slices of beef.
Best at Phở Gia Truyền (Phở Bát Đàn), 49 Bát Đàn, Old Quarter. Get: Phở tái nạm (rare beef and brisket)
Five places, and what to order
- Xới Cơmfamily-run · Láng Hạ / Đống Đa (Lane 36 Láng Hạ)Get: Whatever the daily home-style set is; water spinach with garlic, fried tofu with scallion
- Phở Gà Nguyệtcounter · Hoàn KiếmGet: Phở gà with thigh meat, or thigh mixed with wing
- Phở Tiếncounter · Ba ĐìnhGet: Chicken phở with offal toppings
- Phở Khôi Hóifor phở · Hoàn KiếmGet: Beef phở, choosing your doneness
- Bún Chả Tuyếtfor bún chả · Ba ĐìnhGet: Bún chả with saw-coriander-coated patties
The market
Covered / street market. Northern Vietnamese snacks, dried goods
The line worth it
Get: Phở bò tái (rare beef)
Expect: Morning lines, order and pay first. Beat it: Go before 7am.
In season this November
Com lang Vong (young green rice) · Da Lat persimmons and Doan Hung pomelos
How it works here
Tip: Not expected at street stalls; leave about 5-10% at sit-down restaurants.
Book: Street food is walk-in, first come; book only the upscale places.
When locals eat: Pho and banh mi go early (6-9am) and sell out; dinner from 6pm.