The Kuala Lumpur food cheat sheet

The dish to eat
Coconut rice with fiery sambal, crisp anchovies, peanuts, cucumber and egg, often with fried chicken.
Best at Village Park Restaurant, Damansara Utama, Petaling Jaya. Get: Nasi lemak with the famous fried chicken (ayam goreng berempah)
Five places, and what to order
- Hing Kee Bakuteh (Jalan Kepong)institution · KepongGet: Bak kut teh, mild herbal soup or the thicker dry-spicy version
- Nasi Ayam Chee Menginstitution · Bukit Bintang / Kelang LamaGet: Steamed Hainanese chicken rice, with salted-egg-yolk squid on the side
- Restoran Kin Kincounter · Kampung Baru / Chow KitGet: Chilli pan mee: springy noodles, poached egg, minced pork, anchovies, dry-fried chilli
- Nasi Lemak Tanglinfor nasi lemak · Tanglin food court, near Lake GardensGet: Nasi lemak with beef rendang and fried chicken
- Nasi Lemak Antarabangsafor nasi lemak · Kampung BaruGet: Nasi lemak with sambal sotong (squid)
The market
Wet / open-air market. Tropical produce, seafood, Malay ingredients
In season this November
Deepavali food fairs and bazaars (Brickfields)
How it works here
Tip: Not expected; a 10% service charge is often on the bill. Leave coins at hawker stalls if you like.
Book: Hawker centres and kopitiams are walk-in; book only the fine dining.
When locals eat: Breakfast is a big deal, and hawkers sell out by early afternoon; supper runs past midnight.