The Mexico City food cheat sheet

The dish to eat
Pork marinated in chilies and achiote, cooked on a vertical spit, shaved onto small corn tortillas with pineapple, onion and cilantro.
Best at El Vilsito, Narvarte. Get: Tacos al pastor and a gringa (with cheese in a flour tortilla)
Five places, and what to order
- Taquería Los Cocuyosstreet food · Centro HistóricoGet: Suadero, longaniza or campechano tacos, all with onion and cilantro
- Churrería El Moroinstitution · Centro HistóricoGet: Fresh churros with thick sipping chocolate or cajeta
- Tortería Los Güerosfamily-run · RomaGet: Cubana Especial with a half-liter of agua de sandía
- Tacos Tonyfor tacos al pastor and suadero · Narvarte PonienteGet: Suadero en trozo
- Tortas Biarritzfor torta cubana · RomaGet: The Biarritz torta (its take on a cubana)
The market
Wholesale market. Produce, chiles, national food supply
The line worth it
Get: Gaonera taco (thin beef, lime and salt)
Expect: Lines at lunch and late. Beat it: Go mid-afternoon.
In season this November
Pan de muerto
How it works here
Tip: Leave 10-15% at restaurants; a few pesos at taco stands.
Book: Book the tasting menus weeks out; taquerias, fondas and markets are walk-in.
When locals eat: Comida (the big meal) 2-5pm; tacos al pastor are a night thing; dinner from 8pm.