The Mumbai food cheat sheet

The dish to eat
A spiced potato fritter in a soft bun with garlic chutney, green chutney and a fried green chili.
Best at Ashok Vada Pav, Kirti College Lane, Dadar. Get: Vada pav and chura pav (the fried crumbs in a bun)
Five places, and what to order
- Prakash Shakahari Upahar Kendrainstitution · Dadar WestGet: Sabudana vada, batata vada and the sweet piyush drink; bring cash
- KTR (Karnataka Tiffin Room)cafĂ© · Andheri West (Versova)Get: Benne masala dosa, medu vada, temple puliyogare, cold filter coffee
- Yazdani Bakerybakery · FortGet: Brun pav with butter dunked in Irani chai
- Aaram Vada Pavfor vada pav · Opposite CSMT station, FortGet: Vada pav with extra garlic chutney
- Graduate Vada Pavfor vada pav · BycullaGet: Vada pav, the vada fried in a crisp, spicy batter
The market
Covered market. Fruit, spices, nuts, ingredients
The line worth it
Get: Vada pav with spicy garlic and sweet tamarind chutneys; also the chura pav variant
In season this November
Diwali sweets and farsan
How it works here
Tip: Leave 5-10% if no service charge is on the bill; small change at street stalls.
Book: Book the big-name restaurants a few days out; dhabas, chaat stalls and canteens are walk-in.
When locals eat: Lunch 1-3pm, dinner from 8:30pm.