The Naples food cheat sheet

The dish to eat
Soft, blistered wood-fired pizza with San Marzano tomato, fior di latte, basil and olive oil.
Best at L'Antica Pizzeria da Michele, Via Cesare Sersale, Forcella. Get: Margherita (they also do marinara, and nothing else)
Five places, and what to order
- Cibi Cotti Nonna Annacounter · Mergellina (covered food market)Get: Whatever the hot bar has that day: potato-and-provola pasta, gnocchi in smoky tomato, mixed fried small fish
- Isabella De Chamfamily-run · Rione SanitÃGet: Pizza fritta (fried pizza)
- La Cantina di via Sapienzainstitution · Centro Storico (Via Sapienza)Get: Pasta e patate, parmigiana, and the house red wine
- Staritafor pizza napoletana · MaterdeiGet: Marinara or montanara
- Antica Pizza Fritta da Zia Esterina Sorbillofor pizza fritta / cuoppo · Centro storicoGet: Pizza fritta with ricotta, cicoli and pepper
The line worth it
Get: Only two pizzas on the menu, margherita and marinara, since 1870.
In season this November
Torrone dei morti · Friarielli
How it works here
Tip: Not expected. Check for coperto or servizio on the bill; otherwise round up or leave a few euros.
Book: Book dinner a day or two out (weeks for the famous places); bars and pizza al taglio are walk-in.
When locals eat: Lunch 12:30-2:30pm, dinner from 7:30pm; kitchens close between.