The Rome food cheat sheet

The dish to eat
Pasta tossed with pecorino Romano, black pepper and starchy pasta water into a creamy sauce.
Best at Felice a Testaccio, Via Mastro Giorgio, Testaccio. Get: Tonnarelli cacio e pepe, mixed at the table
Five places, and what to order
- Pasticceria Boccionebakery · Jewish Ghetto (Portico d'Ottavia)Get: Ricotta and sour cherry crostata, and pizza ebraica
- Pizzeria Remoinstitution · TestaccioGet: Thin margherita, crisp supplì, fried zucchini flowers
- Il Forno Campo de' Fioribakery · Campo de' FioriGet: Pizza bianca with mortadella (pizza e mortazza)
- Armando al Pantheonfor carbonara · PantheonGet: Spaghetti carbonara
- Checco er Carettierefor amatriciana and gricia · TrastevereGet: Mezze maniche all'amatriciana
The market
Covered market. Roman sandwiches, produce, pasta
The line worth it
Get: Carbonara, cacio e pepe, and the carciofi alla giudia in season
Expect: 45 min to over an hour. Beat it: Be in line before opening.
In season this November
Nocciola Romana DOP hazelnuts
How it works here
Tip: Not expected. Check for coperto or servizio on the bill; otherwise round up or leave a few euros.
Book: Book dinner a day or two out (weeks for the famous places); bars and pizza al taglio are walk-in.
When locals eat: Lunch 12:30-2:30pm, dinner from 7:30pm; kitchens close between.