The Singapore food cheat sheet

The dish to eat
Silky poached chicken with rice cooked in chicken fat and broth, chili-garlic sauce, ginger and dark soy.
Best at Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice, Maxwell Food Centre, Chinatown. Get: Steamed chicken rice, with extra chili
Five places, and what to order
- Jian Bo Tiong Bahru Shui Kuehmarket stall · Tiong BahruGet: Chwee kueh (steamed rice cakes) with chye poh and chilli
- MTRinstitution · Kallang (Serangoon Rd)Get: Plain or masala thosai, bisibele bhath, idlis and filter coffee; ask for extra ghee
- Mr & Mrs Mohgan Super Crispy Roti Pratastreet food · Joo ChiatGet: Small, crunchy coin prata, plain or egg, dipped in fish or mutton curry
- Mellben Seafoodfor chilli crab · Ang Mo KioGet: Chilli crab and claypot crab bee hoon soup
- 328 Katong Laksafor laksa · KatongGet: Laksa with a slice of otah
The market
Hawker centre. Fish soup, noodles, rice bowls
The line worth it
Get: Bak chor mee, dry with chili
Expect: 45 min to over an hour. Beat it: Go on a weekday mid-afternoon.
In season this November
Bak kwa
How it works here
Tip: No tipping; restaurants add 10% service plus tax. Nothing at hawker centres.
Book: Hawker centres are walk-in (reserve a table with a tissue packet); book the restaurants a week or more out.
When locals eat: Hawker stalls sell out and close on set days; check before you go.