Buttermilk Biscuits

Buttermilk Biscuits

This is the kind of biscuit that made Southern cooks famous: tall, craggy-topped, tender inside, with a crust that shatters a little when you break it open. The whole thing hinges on cold fat, a soft touch, and not overworking the dough. Make these tonight and you'll understand why some cooks spend a lifetime defending their biscuit method.

You need

• 2 cups (250g) soft wheat flour, such as White Lily, plus more for dusting (or substitute all-purpose flour)
• 1 tablespoon baking powder
• 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
• 3/4 teaspoon fine salt
• 5 tablespoons (70g) cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
• 1 cup (240ml) cold buttermilk, plus a little extra if needed
• 2 tablespoons melted butter, for brushing

Method

1. Heat the oven to 450°F (230°C). Set a rack in the upper third.
2. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt.
3. Scatter the cold butter over the flour. Work it in with your fingertips or a pastry cutter until the biggest pieces are the size of small peas. Work quickly so the butter stays cold.
4. Make a well in the center and pour in the buttermilk. Stir gently with a fork just until the dough starts to come together and there's no dry flour left at the bottom of the bowl. The dough will look shaggy and a little wet — that's correct.
5. Turn the dough out onto a well-floured surface. Flour your hands and fold the dough over on itself gently 5 or 6 times, turning a quarter turn each time, until it just holds together. Do not knead it like bread dough.
6. Pat (don't roll) the dough into a rectangle about 3/4 inch (2 cm) thick. Dip a sharp biscuit cutter or a glass in flour and cut straight down without twisting — twisting seals the edges and stops the rise.
7. Set the biscuits close together, touching, on an ungreased baking sheet or in a cast iron skillet. This helps them rise up instead of out.
8. Bake for 12 to 15 minutes, until the tops are golden brown and they sound hollow when tapped.
9. Brush the tops with melted butter as soon as they come out of the oven. Serve hot, with more butter and good preserves.