Jerk-Spiced Chicken Thighs with Pineapple Escabeche
In the spirit of All Hours by Kwame Onwuachi

Photo: Wikimedia Commons
Chef’s own recipe, written so you can cook the way this book teaches tonight. It is not the book’s recipe: for those, get the book.
Jerk-Spiced Chicken Thighs with Pineapple Escabeche
Serves 4 ยท 3 hours 15 minutes (including 2 hours marinating)
A project worth the wait: bone-in chicken thighs soaked overnight-style in a fragrant, peppery jerk marinade, then roasted until the skin blisters and the meat falls off the bone. A quick pickled pineapple and onion relish cuts through the heat and richness, and together they taste like a late-night plate that has real depth.
You need
- 8 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs (about 3 pounds / 1.4 kg)
- 4 scallions, roughly chopped
- 1 small onion, roughly chopped
- 2 to 3 Scotch bonnet or habanero peppers, stemmed (adjust to heat tolerance)
- 3 cloves garlic
- 2 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves
- 1 tablespoon ground allspice
- 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
- 1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
- 2 tablespoons brown sugar
- 3 tablespoons soy sauce
- 3 tablespoons white vinegar
- 2 tablespoons neutral oil (30 ml)
- 1 tablespoon kosher salt
- For the escabeche: 1 cup diced fresh pineapple (about 1/2 small pineapple), 1/2 red onion thinly sliced, 1/2 cup white vinegar, 1/4 cup water, 2 tablespoons sugar, 1 teaspoon kosher salt, 1 bay leaf
Method
- Make the marinade: in a blender, combine the scallions, onion, peppers, garlic, thyme, allspice, cinnamon, nutmeg, brown sugar, soy sauce, vinegar, oil, and salt. Blend until smooth, scraping the sides as needed, about 1 minute.
- Season the chicken: pat the thighs dry and score the skin in a few places with a sharp knife. Put them in a large bowl or zip-top bag and pour over the marinade, rubbing it into the scores and under the skin where you can.
- Marinate the chicken for at least 2 hours in the refrigerator, or up to overnight. Take it out 30 minutes before roasting so it cooks more evenly.
- Make the escabeche while the chicken marinates: in a small saucepan, combine the vinegar, water, sugar, salt, and bay leaf. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves, about 2 minutes.
- Pour the hot brine over the pineapple and red onion in a heatproof bowl. Let sit at room temperature for at least 30 minutes. It should taste sweet, sour, and lightly pickled. Discard the bay leaf before serving.
- Preheat the oven to 425 F (220 C) with a rack in the upper third. Line a rimmed sheet pan with foil and set a wire rack on top.
- Arrange the chicken skin side up on the rack, leaving space between pieces. Roast for 35 to 45 minutes, until the skin is deeply blistered and the internal temperature reads 175 F (80 C) in the thickest part, away from the bone.
- For extra color, turn on the broiler for 1 to 2 minutes at the end, watching closely so the marinade does not burn.
- Rest the chicken for 5 minutes. Serve hot with the pineapple escabeche spooned over the top and any pan juices drizzled over the chicken.
Chef's tip: Scotch bonnets are very hot, so start with two and taste the marinade before adding more. Wear gloves when handling them, and wash your hands and cutting board well afterward.
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