Khao Soi Gai (Northern Thai Coconut Curry Noodles)

Khao Soi Gai (Northern Thai Coconut Curry Noodles)

Khao soi is the northern Thai noodle soup that rewards patience: a fragrant, mildly spiced coconut curry broth over soft egg noodles, with a second texture of crisp fried noodles on top. It is a project, but most of the work is in a paste you make once and a broth that simmers while you do other things. The result is rich, layered and deeply comforting, and it is a true taste of the regional cooking this book celebrates.

You need

• 2 pounds [900 g] bone-in chicken thighs and drumsticks
• 1 teaspoon salt, plus more to taste
• 1 tablespoon neutral oil
• 1 can (13.5 fluid ounces [400 ml]) coconut milk, full fat
• 4 cups [1 L] chicken stock
• 2 tablespoons fish sauce
• 1 tablespoon palm sugar or brown sugar
• 2 tablespoons red curry paste (store-bought or homemade)
• 1 teaspoon ground turmeric
• 1 teaspoon ground coriander
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
• 1 cinnamon stick
• 2 kaffir lime leaves
• 8 ounces [225 g] fresh egg noodles, or dried egg noodles
• 3 cups [about 700 ml] neutral oil, for frying the noodles (for the crisp topping)
• 4 ounces [115 g] dried thin egg noodles, for the crisp topping
• For serving: 4 shallots, thinly sliced; 1 lime, cut into wedges; 2 tablespoons pickled mustard greens, chopped; fresh cilantro; chili oil

Method

1. Season the chicken all over with the salt and let it sit for 20 minutes at room temperature while you prepare everything else.
2. Heat the 1 tablespoon oil in a heavy Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Brown the chicken pieces in 2 batches, about 4 minutes per side, until deeply golden. Set aside.
3. Lower the heat to medium. Add the red curry paste, turmeric, coriander and cumin to the pot and fry for 2 minutes, stirring, until fragrant and darkened slightly.
4. Pour in the thick top layer of the coconut milk (about 1/2 cup) and stir until the oil separates and the paste sizzles, about 3 to 4 minutes. Then add the rest of the coconut milk, the chicken stock, cinnamon stick and lime leaves.
5. Return the chicken to the pot. Bring to a gentle simmer, then reduce the heat to low and cook partly covered for 45 minutes, until the chicken is very tender and the meat falls from the bone.
6. Stir in the fish sauce and palm sugar. Simmer 5 more minutes and taste. It should be savory, lightly sweet and aromatic. Add salt or fish sauce as needed. Remove the cinnamon stick and lime leaves.
7. Make the crisp noodle topping: heat the 3 cups of oil in a deep, heavy pan to 350 F [175 C]. Fry a small handful of the dried noodles at a time for 20 to 30 seconds, until they puff and turn golden. Drain on paper towels and season with a pinch of salt.
8. Cook the fresh noodles in a large pot of boiling water according to the package directions, usually 1 to 2 minutes. Drain and divide among four bowls.
9. Ladle the hot curry broth and chicken over the noodles. Top each bowl with crisp noodles, sliced shallots, pickled mustard greens and cilantro. Serve with lime wedges and chili oil on the side.