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Tonkotsu-Style Pork Bone Ramen with Chashu

In the spirit of Homemade Ramen by Sho Spaeth

Tonkotsu-Style Pork Bone Ramen with Chashu

Photo: Wikimedia Commons

Chef’s own recipe, written so you can cook the way this book teaches tonight. It is not the book’s recipe: for those, get the book.

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Tonkotsu-Style Pork Bone Ramen with Chashu

Serves 4 ยท 2 days (about 8 hours active)

This is the project bowl: a rich, creamy pork broth that you simmer hard for hours until the bones release their collagen, plus a braised pork belly you can slice thin. It takes planning, but every component is simple, and the broth is the part that makes ramen feel like ramen.

You need

Method

  1. Blanch the bones: put the bones in a large pot, cover with cold water, and bring to a boil over high heat. Boil 10 minutes, watching for grey foam and scum to rise. Drain, rinse the bones under warm water, and scrub the pot clean.
  2. Start the broth: return the bones to the clean pot with 5 quarts (4.7 L) of fresh cold water, the back fat if using, garlic, ginger, onion, and scallions. Bring to a rolling boil, then lower to a steady simmer, uncovered, at a bubble every second or two.
  3. Simmer 6 to 8 hours, topping up with hot water as the level drops. The broth should turn cloudy, pale, and thick enough to coat a spoon, and the fat should emulsify into it. Strain through a fine sieve and keep warm. Refrigerate overnight for easier fat removal if you prefer a lighter bowl, then reheat.
  4. Braise the chashu: in a pot just big enough to hold the pork, combine the soy sauce, mirin, sugar, water, garlic, ginger, and star anise. Bring to a simmer, add the pork, and cover with a parchment lid. Cook at a gentle simmer, about 180 F (82 C), for 2 hours, turning once, until a fork slides in with little resistance.
  5. Rest and slice: let the pork cool in its braising liquid, then chill it for at least 2 hours so it firms up for clean slices. Slice into 1/4-inch (6 mm) rounds. Warm the slices briefly in a little of the braise before serving.
  6. Soft-boil the eggs: for each egg, lower into boiling water for exactly 6 minutes 30 seconds, then chill in ice water. Peel and marinate in 1/4 cup of the braise for at least 2 hours if you have time. Each yolk should be jammy.
  7. Cook the noodles in boiling water 1 to 2 minutes, until just tender. Drain well.
  8. Serve: season the hot broth lightly with salt or extra soy to taste. Ladle into warm bowls, add the noodles, lay on 3 or 4 slices of chashu, halve an egg, and garnish with scallions, nori, bean sprouts, and sesame seeds. Eat immediately.
Chef's tip: Keep the broth at a steady simmer rather than a hard boil. A hard boil emulsifies the fat too aggressively and can make the broth greasy and muddy.
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