Charred Scallion and Garlic Noodles with Sesame

Charred Scallion and Garlic Noodles with Sesame

A quick, deeply savory bowl that shows what slow, patient vegetable cooking can do with almost nothing. Charring the scallions until sweet and sooty, then folding them into glossy noodles, makes a weeknight dinner that tastes like you planned it all afternoon.

You need

• 8 ounces [225 g] dried wheat noodles or udon
• 1 bunch scallions (about 6), trimmed and cut into 3-inch [7.5 cm] lengths
• 3 tablespoons neutral oil, such as canola or grapeseed, divided
• 4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
• 1 tablespoon soy sauce
• 1 tablespoon rice vinegar
• 1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
• 1 teaspoon sugar
• 1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds
• Salt, to taste

Method

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Cook the noodles according to the package directions until just tender, about 3 to 5 minutes. Reserve 1/2 cup [120 ml] of the cooking water, then drain and rinse briefly under cold water to stop the cooking.
2. Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat, about 450 F [230 C], and add 1 tablespoon of the neutral oil. Lay the scallion pieces in a single layer and cook without moving them for 2 to 3 minutes, until the bottoms are deeply charred and blistered. Turn and char the other sides for another 2 minutes. They should be soft, sweet, and dark in spots. Transfer to a plate.
3. Lower the heat to medium-low. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons neutral oil and the garlic. Stir gently for 1 to 2 minutes, until the garlic is pale gold and fragrant. Watch closely, as it goes from golden to bitter quickly.
4. Add the soy sauce, rice vinegar, sugar, and 1/4 cup [60 ml] of the reserved noodle water to the pan. Simmer for 30 seconds, stirring, until slightly thickened.
5. Add the noodles and charred scallions to the pan. Toss over medium heat for 1 to 2 minutes, adding splashes of the reserved water as needed, until every strand is glossy and coated.
6. Remove from the heat, drizzle with the toasted sesame oil, and taste. Add a pinch of salt if needed. Divide between two bowls, scatter with sesame seeds, and eat right away.