Photo: 663highland (CC BY 2.5) via Wikimedia Commons · source
Eel houses grill, steam and grill again over binchotan, brushing on a sweet soy glaze. At home, store-bought grilled eel (unagi kabayaki) reheated under the broiler with homemade sauce is close; salmon makes a good stand-in.
2 pieces store-bought grilled eel (unagi kabayaki), about 300 g (10 oz) total, or 2 skin-on salmon fillets
For the sauce: 60 ml (1/4 cup) soy sauce
60 ml (1/4 cup) mirin
2 tbsp sake
1 1/2 tbsp sugar
2 cups cooked short-grain rice, hot
To serve: a pinch of sansho pepper, pickles, a clear soup
How to make it
Make the sauce (10 min): Simmer the soy, mirin, sake and sugar in a small pan over medium-low until thick enough to coat a spoon, 6 to 8 minutes. It thickens more as it cools.
Prepare the fish (5 min): Eel: rinse the store sauce off under warm water and pat dry. Salmon: pat dry, salt lightly, and cut into 2 pieces.
Grill and glaze (10 min): Heat the broiler with the rack 10 cm (4 in) from the element, or set the pieces over a hot charcoal fire. Eel: grill 2 minutes skin side up, brush with sauce, grill 1 minute, brush and grill again until glossy and bubbling at the edges, 3 rounds in all. Salmon: grill skin side up 4 minutes until the skin crisps, turn, then brush and grill 1 minute at a time 3 times, until cooked to medium (50°C / 122°F).
Assemble (5 min): Drizzle 1 tbsp sauce over the hot rice in a box or bowl, lay the fish on top, and brush with more sauce. Sprinkle with sansho and serve with pickles and soup.
Tips
Keep the leftover sauce in the fridge for a month.
A blowtorch gives the charred edges a charcoal grill would.
Don't skip the rinse; fresh glaze tastes much better than the packet.