The dish to eat in Chiang Mai · Thailand

Khao soi

Name: Khao soi gai (Chiang Mai curry noodles)
Total time: 1 h 15 min
Yield: 4
Cuisine: Thailand
Ingredients: For the paste: 6 dried guajillo or large Thai dried chilies, seeded and soaked 15 minutes in hot water; 4 shallots, 5 garlic cloves and a 1-inch (2.5 cm) piece each of ginger and fresh turmeric (or 1 tsp ground); 2 tsp ground coriander, 1 tsp curry powder, 1/2 tsp ground cardamom; 1 tsp shrimp paste (optional); 2 cans (13.5 oz / 400 ml each) coconut milk, not shaken; 6 bone-in chicken drumsticks or thighs (about 2 lb / 900 g); 2 cups (480 ml) chicken stock; 2 1/2 tbsp fish sauce, 1 tbsp palm or brown sugar, 1 tbsp light soy sauce; 14 oz (400 g) fresh flat egg noodles; 2 cups (480 ml) neutral oil, for frying a handful of noodles; To serve: pickled mustard greens (chopped), sliced shallots, lime wedges, chili oil, cilantro

Photo: Takeaway, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons · source

Curry noodle soup with coconut milk and chicken, topped with crisp fried noodles, eaten with pickled mustard greens, shallots and lime.

Northern Thailand's great bowl came down the caravan routes from Yunnan and Burma; in Chiang Mai it's a breakfast and lunch ritual, gone by mid-afternoon.

Where to eat it Cook it at home

Where to eat it: the best three in Chiang Mai

Khao Soi Khun Yai
Old City, near the north wall
Order: Khao soi with chicken drumstick
A grandmother's morning stall, open only until the pot runs out.
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Khao Soi Mae Sai
Off Huay Kaew Road, near Nimman
Order: Khao soi with chicken or beef, add a crab-paste fried rice if hungry
A Michelin Bib Gourmand favorite with a deeper, spicier curry.
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Khao Soi Islam
Charoen Prathet Road, near the Night Bazaar
Order: Beef khao soi
Run by the city's Chinese-Muslim community, whose ancestors brought the dish south.
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All three are on Chef Amazing’s list The best khao soi in Chiang Mai, which you can save and take with you.

Cook it at home: Khao soi gai (Chiang Mai curry noodles)

Serves 4Time 1 hr 15 min

A quick homemade paste of dried chilies, shallots, garlic, ginger and turmeric makes the broth taste like the north. Fry half the noodles crisp for the top.

Pans and tools

Blender or mortar and pestle
Large heavy pot
Small pot and thermometer for frying
Large pot for the noodles

You’ll need

For the paste: 6 dried guajillo or large Thai dried chilies, seeded and soaked 15 minutes in hot water
4 shallots, 5 garlic cloves and a 1-inch (2.5 cm) piece each of ginger and fresh turmeric (or 1 tsp ground)
2 tsp ground coriander, 1 tsp curry powder, 1/2 tsp ground cardamom
1 tsp shrimp paste (optional)
2 cans (13.5 oz / 400 ml each) coconut milk, not shaken
6 bone-in chicken drumsticks or thighs (about 2 lb / 900 g)
2 cups (480 ml) chicken stock
2 1/2 tbsp fish sauce, 1 tbsp palm or brown sugar, 1 tbsp light soy sauce
14 oz (400 g) fresh flat egg noodles
2 cups (480 ml) neutral oil, for frying a handful of noodles
To serve: pickled mustard greens (chopped), sliced shallots, lime wedges, chili oil, cilantro

Steps

Make the paste: blend the drained chilies, shallots, garlic, ginger, turmeric, coriander, curry powder, cardamom and shrimp paste with 2 tbsp of soaking water to a smooth paste.
Spoon the thick cream from the top of one can of coconut milk into a large pot. Cook over medium heat, stirring, until it bubbles and the oil starts to separate, 5 minutes.
Add the paste and fry, stirring constantly, 4 to 5 minutes until dark, fragrant and oily.
Add the chicken and turn to coat in the paste, 2 minutes. Add the rest of the coconut milk, the stock, fish sauce, sugar and soy. Bring to a simmer and cook gently, partly covered, 35 to 40 minutes, until the chicken is tender at the bone.
While it simmers, heat the frying oil in a small pot to 350F (175C). Fry one loose handful of the noodles (about 2 oz / 55 g), separated into strands, for 1 minute until golden and crisp. Drain on paper towels and salt lightly.
Cook the remaining noodles in boiling water for 1 to 2 minutes until just tender, drain and rinse briefly.
Taste the broth: it should be rich, a little sweet and salty. Adjust with fish sauce or sugar.
Divide the boiled noodles among deep bowls, add a piece of chicken to each and ladle over plenty of broth. Pile the crispy noodles on top. Serve with pickled greens, shallots, lime and chili oil so everyone seasons their own.

Chef’s tips

Squeeze in lime at the table: it brightens the rich curry dramatically.

Pickled mustard greens (pak gad dong) come in cans or packs at Asian markets.

The broth is even better the next day; cook the noodles fresh.

Contains: Wheat, egg, fish, shellfish (shrimp paste), soy.

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