Fish and chips

Cook it at home: Beer-battered fish and chips

Two keys: chips cooked twice (once low to soften, once hot to crisp), and an ice-cold batter mixed at the last second so it puffs and shatters.

Pans and tools

• Large heavy pot or deep fryer
• Deep-fry thermometer
• Two wire racks over sheet pans
• Whisk
• Spider or slotted spoon

You’ll need

• 4 thick skinless haddock or cod fillets (6 oz / 170 g each), pin-boned
• 2 1/2 lb (1.1 kg) floury potatoes (Maris Piper or russet), peeled
• About 3 quarts (3 l) beef dripping, peanut or sunflower oil, for frying
• For the batter: 1 cup (130 g) all-purpose flour, 1/2 cup (60 g) cornstarch or rice flour, 1 tsp baking powder, 1 tsp salt
• 1 1/4 cups (300 ml) very cold lager or pale ale
• 1/4 cup (30 g) flour, for dusting the fish
• For mushy peas: 2 1/2 cups (350 g) frozen peas, 2 tbsp butter, 2 mint leaves, salt
• To serve: flaky salt, malt vinegar, lemon wedges, tartare sauce

Steps

1. Cut the potatoes into thick chips, about 1/2 inch (1.5 cm) square. Rinse in cold water until the water runs clear, then dry thoroughly on towels.
2. Heat the fat in a deep heavy pot to 285F (140C). Fry the chips in two batches for 7 to 9 minutes, until soft but still pale. Lift out and drain on a rack. They can wait an hour.
3. Make the peas: simmer the peas in salted water 4 minutes, drain, then mash with the butter, mint and salt until rough and creamy. Keep warm.
4. Pat the fish very dry and season both sides with salt. Leave on a plate in the fridge.
5. Raise the oil to 375F (190C). Just before frying, whisk the batter flours, baking powder and salt, then whisk in the cold beer until smooth and the thickness of heavy cream. A few lumps are fine.
6. Dust a fillet in flour, shake off the excess, dip it in batter and let the extra drip off. Lower it into the oil away from you, holding it a moment before letting go so it doesn't stick to the bottom. Fry 2 at a time, 5 to 6 minutes, turning once, until deep golden and crisp. Drain on a rack and salt immediately.
7. Keep the fish warm in a 200F (95C) oven while you fry the chips a second time at 375F (190C) for 3 to 4 minutes, until golden and crisp. Drain, and salt generously.
8. Serve straight away with the peas, lemon, tartare sauce and a good shake of malt vinegar.

Contains: Fish, wheat, milk.