Gilda

Cook it at home: Gildas with homemade boquerones

Gildas are only as good as what goes on the stick. Use the best Cantabrian anchovies in oil and sweet-hot Basque guindillas. For the classic white anchovy version, marinate fresh anchovies the night before.

Pans and tools

• Small skewers or long toothpicks
• Shallow glass dish (for boquerones)
• Paring knife

You’ll need

• 12 large manzanilla or gordal green olives, pitted (or Spanish anchovy-stuffed olives)
• 12 good anchovy fillets in olive oil (Cantabrian if possible), or 12 homemade boquerones (below), or a mix
• 24 pickled guindilla peppers from Ibarra (Basque pickled green chilies)
• Best extra-virgin olive oil
• 12 small skewers or toothpicks
• For boquerones en vinagre (optional): 12 fresh anchovies, 1 cup (240 ml) white wine vinegar, 1/3 cup (80 ml) water, 1 tsp salt, 1 garlic clove sliced, chopped parsley

Steps

1. For boquerones (the day before): pull the head off each anchovy, pulling the guts with it. Run your thumb along the belly to open it flat, then lift out the spine. Rinse and pat dry.
2. Freeze the fillets 48 hours first if you're unsure about parasites (fishmongers often supply previously frozen fish). Then lay them skin down in a dish and cover with the vinegar, water and salt. Refrigerate overnight, until white all the way through.
3. Drain, cover with olive oil, garlic and parsley. They keep 3 days in the fridge.
4. To assemble each gilda: thread an olive, then fold an anchovy fillet in an S shape onto the skewer, then two guindillas folded in half, then another olive if you like. The order varies; the classic is olive, anchovy, guindilla, olive.
5. Lay them on a plate, drizzle with olive oil, and serve right away with a cold glass of txakoli or vermouth.

Contains: Fish.