Leek season · No. 1

Leeks vinaigrette, the Her Place way

Leeks cooked until they give, dressed while warm so they drink in the vinaigrette, and finished with egg and chives. The whole trick is cooking them longer than you think.

35 min, plus cooling · serves 4

1. You need

   • 4 medium leeks (about 2 lb / 900 g), or 8 thin ones
   • Kosher salt
   • 1 small shallot, very finely minced
   • 2 tbsp red wine vinegar
   • 1 heaped tbsp Dijon mustard
   • 1 tsp whole-grain mustard
   • 1 tsp honey
   • 6 tbsp good olive oil
   • 1 tbsp capers, rinsed and chopped
   • 2 eggs
   • 1 tbsp chopped chives
   • 1 tbsp chopped parsley
   • Flaky salt and black pepper, to finish

   How to make it

   1. Trim the dark green tops and the hairy roots, but keep the root end on so each leek holds together. Split them lengthwise, root and all, and rinse under cold water, fanning the layers with your thumb until no grit is left.
   2. Bring a wide pan of water to a boil and salt it like pasta water. Lay the leeks in and simmer gently until a knife slides into the thickest part with no push at all, 12 to 15 minutes for medium leeks, 6 to 8 for thin ones.
   3. While they cook, put the shallot in a bowl with the vinegar and a pinch of salt and leave it 10 minutes to soften. Whisk in both mustards and the honey, then the olive oil in a thin stream until it's thick. Stir in the capers.
   4. Lift the leeks out with tongs and lay them cut side down on a towel. Press gently to squeeze out the water: watery leeks make a watery dressing.
   5. Put the leeks cut side up on a platter while they're still warm and spoon over two-thirds of the vinaigrette. Let them sit at least 20 minutes; they get better as they cool.
   6. Meanwhile boil the eggs for 10 minutes, cool them in cold water, peel and grate them on the large holes of a box grater.
   7. To serve, spoon over the rest of the dressing, scatter the egg, chives and parsley, and finish with flaky salt and pepper. Serve at room temperature with bread for the dressing.

Chef's home version of Her Place Supper Club's leeks vinaigrette (Philadelphia), in our own words, not the restaurant's recipe.