Leek season · No. 9

Charred leeks, sauce ravigote

Leeks simmered, then blackened in a hot pan, and dressed with ravigote: a vinaigrette packed with capers, cornichons and soft herbs.

40 min · serves 4

1. You need

   • 4 medium leeks
   • Kosher salt
   • 2 tbsp olive oil
   • For the ravigote: 1 shallot, minced; 2 tbsp white wine vinegar; 1 tsp Dijon; 6 tbsp olive oil; 1 tbsp capers, chopped; 4 cornichons, finely chopped; 2 tbsp each chopped parsley, chervil (or tarragon) and chives
   • 1 hard-boiled egg, finely chopped (optional)

   How to make it

   1. Trim and split the leeks, keep the root end on, and rinse well. Simmer in salted water until just tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Drain cut side down and pat completely dry.
   2. Make the ravigote: soak the shallot in the vinegar with a pinch of salt for 10 minutes, whisk in the mustard and oil, then stir in the capers, cornichons and herbs. Taste for salt and acid.
   3. Heat a heavy pan or grill pan over high heat until it smokes. Oil and salt the leeks and lay them cut side down. Don't move them for 4 to 5 minutes, until black in places. Turn and char the other side for 2 minutes.
   4. Lay the leeks on a plate charred side up, spoon over the ravigote and scatter the egg if using. Good warm or at room temperature.

Chef's home version of Le Rock's charred leeks with ravigote vinaigrette (New York), in our own words, not the restaurant's recipe.