Leek season · No. 7

Melted leeks with whipped salt cod

Leeks cooked slowly in butter and a reduced chicken stock until they collapse, topped with a quick brandade. Use smoked trout if you can't plan a day ahead for salt cod.

1 hr, plus soaking the cod · serves 4

1. You need

   • 4 medium leeks, sliced into ½-inch (1 cm) coins
   • 4 tbsp butter
   • 2 cups (480 ml) good chicken stock, simmered down to ¾ cup
   • Kosher salt and black pepper
   • For the salt cod: 6 oz (170 g) salt cod, soaked 24 hours in cold water changed 3 times (or 6 oz smoked trout); 1 cup (240 ml) milk; 1 garlic clove; 1 small Yukon Gold potato, peeled and cubed; ¼ cup (60 ml) olive oil; lemon
   • Chives, to finish

   How to make it

   1. Rinse the sliced leeks in a big bowl of water, lift them out and drain well.
   2. Melt the butter in a heavy pan over medium-low heat, add the leeks and a pinch of salt, cover and cook, stirring every few minutes, until completely soft and sweet with no color, 25 to 30 minutes.
   3. Pour in the reduced stock and simmer uncovered until it turns glossy and coats the leeks, 5 to 8 minutes. Season.
   4. Salt cod: simmer the soaked cod, potato and garlic in the milk until the potato is tender, 15 minutes. Drain (keep the milk), flake the fish, and mash with the potato and garlic, beating in the olive oil and enough of the milk to make it fluffy. Add lemon and pepper. (With smoked trout, just flake it and beat it into the mashed potato with the oil.)
   5. Spoon the leeks and their sauce into warm bowls, top with a spoonful of the cod and the chives.

Chef's home version of The Tasting Kitchen's melted leeks with salt cod (Los Angeles), in our own words, not the restaurant's recipe.