The best bowl in Barcelona: Escudella i carn d'olla
Escudella
Photo: Tamorlan, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons · source
Catalonia's winter pot: a rich broth with big shell pasta (galets), then the meats and a giant meatball (pilota) on a second plate.
Every Catalan grandmother makes escudella at Christmas, and Barcelona's oldest dining rooms make it all winter. You eat it in two acts: the soup first, the meats after.
Two courses from one pot. The pilota (a big seasoned meatball) is the part everyone fights over; make it the size of a fist and poach it in the broth for the last 40 minutes.
1 botifarra blanca and 1 botifarra negra (or a mild white and a blood sausage)
For the pilota: 8 oz (225 g) ground pork, 1 egg, 2 garlic cloves minced, 2 tbsp chopped parsley, 1/2 cup (30 g) fresh breadcrumbs soaked in 3 tbsp milk, 1 tsp salt, flour for dusting
8 oz (225 g) galets (large shell pasta) or conchiglioni
Salt and black pepper
How to make it
Put the beef, ribs, ham bone, chicken and trotter in a very large pot with the cold water. Bring slowly to a boil over medium heat, about 30 minutes, skimming off all the foam.
Add the drained chickpeas in a mesh bag or loose. Simmer very gently, partly covered, 2 hours.
Mix the pilota ingredients with your hands, shape into one large oval (or two) and roll in flour. Add it to the pot with the carrots, leek, celery, turnip and parsnip. Simmer 30 minutes.
Add the cabbage, potatoes and both sausages. Simmer 25 to 30 minutes more, until the potatoes are tender and the beef yields to a fork.
Lift out all the meats, sausages, pilota and vegetables onto a warm platter and cover with foil. Strain the broth into a clean pot; taste and salt it well.
Bring the broth to a boil, add the galets and cook according to the package, usually 12 to 14 minutes, until tender.
Serve the broth and pasta first, in deep bowls. Then bring out the platter: sliced pilota, the meats, sausages, chickpeas and vegetables, with salt, olive oil and a little of the broth.
Pans and tools
12-quart stockpot
large platter
fine sieve
Chef's tips
The broth is the point, so keep it at the barest simmer; boiling makes it cloudy and greasy.
Chill leftover broth overnight and lift off the fat before reheating.
Leftover meats become croquetes or canelons the next day, the Catalan way.
Chef Amazing's own recipe, written for a home kitchen. Saved, it opens in Chef Amazing with a timeline, mise en place and what you already have.
Four more bowls in Barcelona
2
Fish soup
Sopa de peix
Photo: E4024, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons · source
A dark, rich Catalan fish soup made from rockfish and prawn heads, with a picada of fried bread, almonds and garlic.
Can Solé · Carrer de Sant Carles 4, 08003 Barcelona
Get: Sopa de peix to start, then the arròs or the suquet if you're sharing
What to say
Una sopa de peix, si us plau.A fish soup, please. (In Catalan.)
Barceloneta's seafood house for well over a century, praised by every guide for the produce; the fish soup is the old-school opener.
The flavor comes from the shells and heads, browned hard. Ask the fishmonger for frames and heads: they're usually free.
You need
2 lb (900 g) fish frames and heads (rockfish, monkfish, hake), gills removed
8 large shell-on prawns, peeled, shells and heads kept
1/3 cup (80 ml) olive oil
1 onion, chopped, 1 leek, sliced
2 ripe tomatoes, grated
1 tsp sweet pimentón
1/2 cup (120 ml) dry white wine
2 quarts (1.9 l) water
Picada: 1 slice bread fried in olive oil, 12 toasted almonds, 2 garlic cloves, small handful parsley, a pinch of saffron
8 oz (225 g) monkfish or hake fillet, cubed
Salt
How to make it
Heat the oil in a wide pot and fry the prawn shells and heads 5 minutes, pressing them, until deep red. Add the fish frames and cook 5 minutes more.
Add the onion and leek and cook 10 minutes, then the tomato and pimentón for 5. Pour in the wine, let it bubble off, then add the water. Simmer 35 minutes.
Strain through a sieve, pressing hard on the solids. Return the broth to the pot.
Pound or blend the picada ingredients with a little broth to a paste and stir it into the soup. Simmer 5 minutes.
Add the fish cubes and prawns and cook 3 to 4 minutes until just done. Season and serve with toast.
Chef's tips
A food mill instead of a sieve gives a thicker, rustier soup.
Contains: fish, shellfish, tree nuts, wheat.
Chef Amazing's own recipe, written for a home kitchen. Saved, it opens in Chef Amazing with a timeline, mise en place and what you already have.
3
Brothy lobster rice
Arròs caldós de llamàntol
A photo like it: Joe Mabel, CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons (not of this bowl)
Rice cooked in a loose, soupy lobster broth, eaten with a spoon: the Catalan rice that's halfway to soup.
7 Portes · Passeig d'Isabel II 14, 08003 Barcelona
Get: Arròs caldós de llamàntol for two (the rice dishes are made for two)
What to say
Un arròs caldós de llamàntol per a dos, si us plau.A brothy lobster rice for two, please.
Open since 1836, the grand old room where Barcelona goes for rice; its rice menu is one of the city's classics.
Tonkotsu is pork bones boiled hard, not simmered, until the fat and collagen emulsify and the broth goes white. It takes a day, but it's mostly waiting.
You need
4 lb (1.8 kg) pork trotters and neck bones, cut by the butcher
Cover the bones with cold water, bring to a boil, boil 10 minutes, drain and scrub off the grey scum. Clean the pot.
Return the bones with fresh water to cover by 2 inches (5 cm). Boil hard, lid off, 10 to 12 hours, topping up with boiling water to keep the bones covered. Add the onion, garlic, ginger and scallions for the last hour. Strain: you want about 2 quarts (1.9 l) of white broth.
Meanwhile, braise the pork belly in the tare plus 1 cup (240 ml) water, covered, at a low simmer for 2 hours, turning now and then. Cool, slice thin, and keep the braising liquid.
Boil the eggs 6 1/2 minutes, chill in ice water, peel and soak in 1/2 cup of the braising liquid for at least 4 hours.
Put 2 tbsp braising liquid in each warm bowl. Cook the noodles 1 minute less than the packet says, drain well and add. Ladle 2 cups of boiling broth over each, then top with pork, a halved egg, scallions and nori.
Chef's tips
A pressure cooker gets the broth white in about 2 hours on high.
Taste the broth with the tare in it before adding salt; the tare is the seasoning.
Contains: wheat, soy, egg, sesame.
Our recipe, the same one we give for tonkotsu ramen in Amsterdam. Saved, it opens in Chef Amazing with a timeline, mise en place and what you already have.
5
Galician broth
Caldo gallego
Photo: Juan, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons · source
Galicia's winter soup of white beans, potatoes, turnip greens and pork, the kind the Galician seafood houses keep on.
Botafumeiro · Carrer Gran de Gràcia 81, 08012 Barcelona
Get: Caldo gallego, then the shellfish at the bar
What to say
Un caldo gallego, por favor.A Galician broth, please.
One of Barcelona's most prestigious seafood restaurants, with a Galician kitchen and fish bought daily from two seas.
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No. 1 checked October 28, 2026; the other four picked the same day from local guides and menus. Places change; if one has, tell us at hello@chefamazing.com.
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