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Soup season · Barcelona, Spain

The best bowl in Barcelona: Escudella i carn d'olla

Escudella

Escudella i carn d'olla
Photo: Tamorlan, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons · source

Catalonia's winter pot: a rich broth with big shell pasta (galets), then the meats and a giant meatball (pilota) on a second plate.

Every Catalan grandmother makes escudella at Christmas, and Barcelona's oldest dining rooms make it all winter. You eat it in two acts: the soup first, the meats after.

No. 1 · Where to get it

Can Culleretes

Carrer d'en Quintana 5, 08002 Barcelona

Get: Escudella i carn d'olla, broth with galets first, then the meats

What to say
Una escudella i carn d'olla, si us plau.The escudella and its meats, please.

Open since 1786, Barcelona's oldest restaurant, still cooking the Catalan classics in tiled rooms off the Rambla.

Cold months. Closed Mondays; lunch is the time for it.

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Make it at home

Escudella i carn d'olla with galets and pilota

Serves 8 · 4 hr · Weekend project

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Two courses from one pot. The pilota (a big seasoned meatball) is the part everyone fights over; make it the size of a fist and poach it in the broth for the last 40 minutes.

You need

How to make it

  1. Put the beef, ribs, ham bone, chicken and trotter in a very large pot with the cold water. Bring slowly to a boil over medium heat, about 30 minutes, skimming off all the foam.
  2. Add the drained chickpeas in a mesh bag or loose. Simmer very gently, partly covered, 2 hours.
  3. Mix the pilota ingredients with your hands, shape into one large oval (or two) and roll in flour. Add it to the pot with the carrots, leek, celery, turnip and parsnip. Simmer 30 minutes.
  4. Add the cabbage, potatoes and both sausages. Simmer 25 to 30 minutes more, until the potatoes are tender and the beef yields to a fork.
  5. Lift out all the meats, sausages, pilota and vegetables onto a warm platter and cover with foil. Strain the broth into a clean pot; taste and salt it well.
  6. Bring the broth to a boil, add the galets and cook according to the package, usually 12 to 14 minutes, until tender.
  7. Serve the broth and pasta first, in deep bowls. Then bring out the platter: sliced pilota, the meats, sausages, chickpeas and vegetables, with salt, olive oil and a little of the broth.

Pans and tools

Chef's tips

Chef Amazing's own recipe, written for a home kitchen. Saved, it opens in Chef Amazing with a timeline, mise en place and what you already have.

Four more bowls in Barcelona

2

Fish soup

Sopa de peix

Fish soup
Photo: E4024, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons · source

A dark, rich Catalan fish soup made from rockfish and prawn heads, with a picada of fried bread, almonds and garlic.

Can Solé · Carrer de Sant Carles 4, 08003 Barcelona

Get: Sopa de peix to start, then the arròs or the suquet if you're sharing

What to say
Una sopa de peix, si us plau.A fish soup, please. (In Catalan.)

Barceloneta's seafood house for well over a century, praised by every guide for the produce; the fish soup is the old-school opener.

Make it at home: Catalan fish soup with picada (sopa de peix)

Serves 4 · 1 hr 30 min · Medium

The flavor comes from the shells and heads, browned hard. Ask the fishmonger for frames and heads: they're usually free.

You need

  • 2 lb (900 g) fish frames and heads (rockfish, monkfish, hake), gills removed
  • 8 large shell-on prawns, peeled, shells and heads kept
  • 1/3 cup (80 ml) olive oil
  • 1 onion, chopped, 1 leek, sliced
  • 2 ripe tomatoes, grated
  • 1 tsp sweet pimentón
  • 1/2 cup (120 ml) dry white wine
  • 2 quarts (1.9 l) water
  • Picada: 1 slice bread fried in olive oil, 12 toasted almonds, 2 garlic cloves, small handful parsley, a pinch of saffron
  • 8 oz (225 g) monkfish or hake fillet, cubed
  • Salt

How to make it

  1. Heat the oil in a wide pot and fry the prawn shells and heads 5 minutes, pressing them, until deep red. Add the fish frames and cook 5 minutes more.
  2. Add the onion and leek and cook 10 minutes, then the tomato and pimentón for 5. Pour in the wine, let it bubble off, then add the water. Simmer 35 minutes.
  3. Strain through a sieve, pressing hard on the solids. Return the broth to the pot.
  4. Pound or blend the picada ingredients with a little broth to a paste and stir it into the soup. Simmer 5 minutes.
  5. Add the fish cubes and prawns and cook 3 to 4 minutes until just done. Season and serve with toast.

Chef's tips

  • A food mill instead of a sieve gives a thicker, rustier soup.

Contains: fish, shellfish, tree nuts, wheat.

Chef Amazing's own recipe, written for a home kitchen. Saved, it opens in Chef Amazing with a timeline, mise en place and what you already have.

3

Brothy lobster rice

Arròs caldós de llamàntol

Brothy lobster rice
A photo like it: Joe Mabel, CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons (not of this bowl)

Rice cooked in a loose, soupy lobster broth, eaten with a spoon: the Catalan rice that's halfway to soup.

7 Portes · Passeig d'Isabel II 14, 08003 Barcelona

Get: Arròs caldós de llamàntol for two (the rice dishes are made for two)

What to say
Un arròs caldós de llamàntol per a dos, si us plau.A brothy lobster rice for two, please.

Open since 1836, the grand old room where Barcelona goes for rice; its rice menu is one of the city's classics.

Make it at home: Catalan brothy rice with lobster (arròs caldós)

Serves 4 · 1 hr 15 min · Medium

Unlike paella, this is served at once, swimming in broth, while the rice still has a little bite.

You need

  • 2 live lobsters (about 1 1/4 lb / 570 g each), or 4 lobster tails
  • 1/3 cup (80 ml) olive oil
  • 1 onion, finely chopped, 1 red bell pepper, finely chopped
  • 3 cloves garlic, chopped
  • 2 ripe tomatoes, grated
  • 1 tsp sweet pimentón, a pinch of saffron
  • 2 quarts (1.9 l) fish stock, hot
  • 1 1/2 cups (300 g) short-grain rice (bomba)
  • Salt, chopped parsley

How to make it

  1. Chill the lobsters 30 minutes in the freezer, then split them, cut the tails in pieces and crack the claws. Keep any juices.
  2. Heat the oil in a wide casserole and sear the lobster pieces 2 minutes; lift out.
  3. In the same oil, cook the onion and pepper 12 minutes until soft and sweet, then the garlic, tomato and pimentón for 8 minutes more, until jammy.
  4. Add the rice, stir 1 minute, then pour in the hot stock and saffron. Simmer 12 minutes, stirring once or twice.
  5. Return the lobster and juices, simmer 5 to 6 minutes more until the rice is just tender and still soupy. Season, add parsley, and serve straight away.

Chef's tips

  • It thickens fast as it sits: have the table ready before the rice goes in.

Contains: shellfish, fish.

Chef Amazing's own recipe, written for a home kitchen. Saved, it opens in Chef Amazing with a timeline, mise en place and what you already have.

4

Ramen

ラーメン

Ramen
Photo: Wesoree, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons · source

Rich pork-bone ramen at the city's first dedicated ramen shop.

Ramen-Ya Hiro · Carrer de Girona 164, 08037 Barcelona

Get: The tonkotsu, with an extra egg

What to say
Tonkotsu, ajitama tsuki de, onegaishimasu.Tonkotsu with the egg, please.

Opened as Barcelona's first ramen shop and still called its best bowl by reviewers; no reservations, so expect a line.

Make it at home: Tonkotsu ramen at home

Serves 4 · 12 hr (mostly simmering) · Weekend project

Tonkotsu is pork bones boiled hard, not simmered, until the fat and collagen emulsify and the broth goes white. It takes a day, but it's mostly waiting.

You need

  • 4 lb (1.8 kg) pork trotters and neck bones, cut by the butcher
  • 1 lb (450 g) chicken backs
  • 1 onion, halved, 1 head garlic, halved, 2-inch (5 cm) ginger, sliced
  • 4 scallions, white parts
  • For the tare: 1/2 cup (120 ml) soy sauce, 1/4 cup (60 ml) mirin, 2 tbsp sake, 1 tsp salt
  • 1 lb (450 g) pork belly, rolled and tied
  • 4 eggs
  • 4 portions (about 1 lb / 450 g) thin fresh ramen noodles
  • To serve: sliced scallions, nori, bean sprouts, pickled ginger, sesame seeds

How to make it

  1. Cover the bones with cold water, bring to a boil, boil 10 minutes, drain and scrub off the grey scum. Clean the pot.
  2. Return the bones with fresh water to cover by 2 inches (5 cm). Boil hard, lid off, 10 to 12 hours, topping up with boiling water to keep the bones covered. Add the onion, garlic, ginger and scallions for the last hour. Strain: you want about 2 quarts (1.9 l) of white broth.
  3. Meanwhile, braise the pork belly in the tare plus 1 cup (240 ml) water, covered, at a low simmer for 2 hours, turning now and then. Cool, slice thin, and keep the braising liquid.
  4. Boil the eggs 6 1/2 minutes, chill in ice water, peel and soak in 1/2 cup of the braising liquid for at least 4 hours.
  5. Put 2 tbsp braising liquid in each warm bowl. Cook the noodles 1 minute less than the packet says, drain well and add. Ladle 2 cups of boiling broth over each, then top with pork, a halved egg, scallions and nori.

Chef's tips

  • A pressure cooker gets the broth white in about 2 hours on high.
  • Taste the broth with the tare in it before adding salt; the tare is the seasoning.

Contains: wheat, soy, egg, sesame.

Our recipe, the same one we give for tonkotsu ramen in Amsterdam. Saved, it opens in Chef Amazing with a timeline, mise en place and what you already have.

5

Galician broth

Caldo gallego

Galician broth
Photo: Juan, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons · source

Galicia's winter soup of white beans, potatoes, turnip greens and pork, the kind the Galician seafood houses keep on.

Botafumeiro · Carrer Gran de Gràcia 81, 08012 Barcelona

Get: Caldo gallego, then the shellfish at the bar

What to say
Un caldo gallego, por favor.A Galician broth, please.

One of Barcelona's most prestigious seafood restaurants, with a Galician kitchen and fish bought daily from two seas.

A cold-weather dish; ask if it's on.

Make it at home: Caldo gallego (Galician bean and greens soup)

Serves 6 · 2 hr 30 min, plus overnight soak · Easy

In Galicia it's made with grelos (turnip tops); collards or kale work just as well.

You need

  • 8 oz (225 g) dried white beans, soaked overnight
  • 1 smoked ham hock or 8 oz (225 g) slab bacon
  • 8 oz (225 g) Spanish chorizo, in chunks
  • 3 quarts (2.8 l) water
  • 1 1/2 lb (680 g) waxy potatoes, peeled and cut in chunks
  • 1 bunch turnip greens, collards or kale (about 1 lb / 450 g), stemmed and sliced
  • 2 tbsp olive oil
  • Salt and black pepper

How to make it

  1. Put the drained beans, ham hock and water in a pot. Bring to a boil, skim, and simmer 1 1/2 hours.
  2. Add the chorizo and potatoes and simmer 25 minutes.
  3. Add the greens and simmer 15 minutes more, until everything is soft. Mash a few potatoes against the pot to thicken it.
  4. Pull the meat off the hock and return it. Stir in the olive oil, season, and rest 10 minutes before serving.

Chef's tips

  • It is better the next day.

Chef Amazing's own recipe, written for a home kitchen. Saved, it opens in Chef Amazing with a timeline, mise en place and what you already have.

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All 50 bowls The 25 best soup recipes

No. 1 checked October 28, 2026; the other four picked the same day from local guides and menus. Places change; if one has, tell us at hello@chefamazing.com.

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