Photo: AxlsPacific, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons · source
Morocco's tomato, lentil and chickpea soup with lamb, herbs and spices, thickened with flour and egg, eaten with dates and chebakia.
Harira breaks the fast every night of Ramadan and warms everyone the rest of the year. At dusk on Jemaa el-Fnaa, the harira stalls ladle it for a few dirhams a bowl.
No. 1 · Where to get it
The harira stalls of Jemaa el-Fnaa
Jemaa el-Fnaa, Marrakech
Get: A bowl of harira with a squeeze of lemon, a few dates and a piece of chebakia (sesame honey pastry)
What to say
عافاك، واحد الحريرة. (Afak, wahed l-harira.)One harira, please.
The square fills with food stalls at sundown, and the soup stalls are where locals sit down: a wooden spoon, a bench and a bowl for 10 to 15 dirhams.
Evenings, from sundown; every night of Ramadan is the busiest.
Harira gets its silky texture from a flour-and-water thickener stirred in at the end, called the tadouira. Lots of fresh cilantro and parsley, and lemon at the table, keep it bright.
For the tadouira: 1/2 cup (65 g) flour whisked into 1 1/2 cups (360 ml) cold water
2 eggs, beaten (optional)
To serve: lemon wedges, dates, and chebakia or bread
How to make it
In a large pot, warm the oil and butter over medium heat. Add the lamb, onion, celery, half the herbs and all the spices. Cook 10 minutes, stirring, until the lamb has browned lightly.
Add the drained chickpeas (if dried), the tomatoes, tomato paste and water. Bring to a boil, then simmer, partly covered, 45 minutes.
Add the lentils (and canned chickpeas if using) and the salt. Simmer 35-40 minutes until the lentils and chickpeas are tender.
Add the vermicelli or rice and the rest of the herbs. Cook 8 minutes.
Whisk the tadouira again and pour it in a thin stream into the simmering soup, stirring all the time. Simmer 10 minutes, stirring often, until the soup turns silky and coats a spoon.
If using eggs, drizzle them in while stirring so they form threads.
Taste for salt and serve hot, with lemon, dates and chebakia or bread.
Pans and tools
8-quart heavy pot
box grater
whisk
Chef's tips
Keep stirring after the flour goes in, or it sticks to the bottom.
Leave out the lamb and use vegetable stock for a vegetarian version.
It thickens as it sits; add water when you reheat.
Contains: gluten, egg, dairy.
Chef Amazing's own recipe, written for a home kitchen. Saved, it opens in Chef Amazing with a timeline, mise en place and what you already have.
Four more bowls in Marrakech
2
Fava bean soup
بيصارة (Bissara)
Photo: Miansari66, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons · source
Thick split fava bean soup with olive oil, cumin and paprika, eaten with bread for breakfast in winter.
The breakfast counters of Bab Doukkala
Get: A bowl of bissara with olive oil, cumin and bread, and a msemen
What to say
Wahed bissara, afak.One bissara, please.
The counters by this medina gate feed workers bissara and msemen from dawn; it's the morning soup of Marrakech.
Early mornings, mostly in the cool months (November to February); gone by midday. Cash.
No. 1 checked October 28, 2026; the other four picked the same day from local guides and menus. Places change; if one has, tell us at hello@chefamazing.com.
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