A real person's favorite place · Siracusa, Italy
Caseificio Borderi
Photo: Brian Bedol

The sandwich worth planning a morning around

A cheese stall in Ortigia's market, a guy with a knife, and a line you should get in early.

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By Brian

Some of the best meals I've had in Italy were eaten with my hands. This is one of them.

Caseificio Borderi is a family cheese shop at the edge of the market in Ortigia, the old island part of Siracusa. You don't order off a menu. You stand there, say "chef's choice," and watch them build a sandwich out of whatever is best that morning: fresh ricotta, cheese still warm, salumi, a few things you won't be able to name.

Building it, Ortigia market. Video: Brian Bedol

It's one of the best sandwiches I've ever had. Maybe the best. We added the cheese and salumi platter because the sandwich made us greedy, and cannoli because we were on vacation.

Here's the thing: the market is a morning thing, and so is Borderi. By one o'clock the line is long. Go at ten, take it all to go, and find a spot on the wall along the water.

What to getThe chef's choice sandwich. Then the cheese and salumi platter if you're two or more.Good to knowVia Emmanuele de Benedictis 6, by the Ortigia market. Mornings Monday to Saturday, closed Sunday. Get there before noon.
Save it for when I goPlan a trip to Siracusa

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A real person's favorite place, every morning

Free, at 7am. Chefs, locals and friends who travel to eat. Just your email.

Brian: Media entrepreneur, restaurateur and the family meal planner.

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