The Tinned Fish 25 · No. 9 of 25

  1. Tricana Sardines in Olive Oil and Piri-Piri from Conserveira de Lisboa (Tricana) No.9Photo: Luisa Paixão

    Sardines and sprats · Portugal

    Tricana Sardines in Olive Oil and Piri-Piri

    From Conserveira de Lisboa (Tricana) · Lisbon, Portugal

    In olive oil with chili●●Spicy

    Tricana is the house brand of Conserveira de Lisboa, the old tinned-fish shop on Rua dos Bacalhoeiros in Lisbon, where every tin is still wrapped in paper by hand at the counter.

    The tin every Lisbon visitor carries home. Piri-piri gives it a slow burn.

    Eat it withTomato riceGrilled breadA cold beer

    Conserveira de Lisboa (Tricana) doesn't sell this tin direct here, so the button goes to Luisa Paixão, a shop that carries it.

    Chef's quick recipe

    Portuguese tomato rice with sardines

    35 min · 2 to 3 servings · Arroz de tomate is meant to be loose and soupy; the sardines go on at the end so they just warm through.

    Save to my recipes

    You need

    • 1 tin Tricana sardines with piri-piri
    • 1 small onion, finely chopped
    • 2 garlic cloves, chopped
    • 1 bay leaf
    • 3 ripe tomatoes, grated (or 1 cup canned crushed tomatoes)
    • ¾ cup (150 g) medium-grain rice
    • 2½ cups (600 ml) hot water or light stock
    • Salt
    • 2 tbsp chopped cilantro or parsley

    How to make it

    1. Warm 2 tbsp of the tin's oil in a heavy pot over medium heat. Add the onion and a pinch of salt and cook 6 to 8 minutes until soft and golden.
    2. Add the garlic and bay leaf for 1 minute, then the tomatoes. Simmer 5 minutes until thick.
    3. Stir in the rice for 1 minute, then the hot water and 1 tsp salt. Bring to a simmer.
    4. Cook uncovered at a gentle simmer for 15 to 18 minutes, stirring now and then, until the rice is tender and still loose. Add a splash of water if it gets thick.
    5. Lay the sardines on top, cover and leave off the heat for 3 minutes to warm them.
    6. Spoon into bowls with the herbs and the rest of the oil.

    Chef's own recipe, in our words, built around the tin. It isn't Conserveira de Lisboa (Tricana)'s.

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How to buy a good tin. Look for the fish named on the front (sardines, not "fish"), olive oil rather than "vegetable oil", and a cannery's name and town on the back.

Keep it. Most tins last years in a cool cupboard, and sardines in oil get better with a year or two. Anchovies are the exception: keep them in the fridge.

Serve it. Warm oily fish a little (stand the closed tin in hot tap water for 5 minutes). Chill shellfish in escabeche for 10 minutes. Always keep the oil: it's the sauce.

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The Pickle 25The Small Batch 25Chef's gift guideThe Freezer 25Ingredient of the weekThe dish to eat in Lisbon

Conserveira de Lisboa (Tricana) didn't pay to be here. Order goes straight to Luisa Paixão. The recipe is Chef's own, in our words.

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