Dough (15 min plus 1 hr): Knead everything except the lard and powdered sugar for 10 to 12 minutes into a very soft, smooth, elastic dough. Rest covered 1 hour.
Divide (5 min plus 20 min): Cut into 8 pieces, oil them, and rest 20 minutes.
Stretch (15 min): Oil the counter. Roll a piece into a thin rectangle, then stretch it with your fingertips until it's nearly see-through, about 20 x 40 cm.
Lard and roll (10 min): Spread with soft lard. Roll up tightly from a long side into a thin rope. Stretch the rope a little longer, then coil it loosely into a spiral, tucking the end under. Set on lined trays with room to grow.
Proof (8 to 12 hr): Cover and proof overnight at cool room temperature, until tripled and very airy.
Bake (15 min): Mist with water and bake at 180C (350F) 12 to 15 minutes until pale golden. Cool and dust heavily with powdered sugar.
Tips
Lard is traditional and gives the light, flaky texture.
Don't rush the proof: the long rise is the ensaïmada.