The Florence food cheat sheet
The dish to eat
A huge T-bone of Tuscan beef, grilled over hot coals, served rare with salt, olive oil and lemon.
Best at Trattoria Sostanza, Via del Porcellana, near Santa Maria Novella. Get: Bistecca and the butter chicken (petti di pollo al burro)
Five places, and what to order
- Da Nerbonemarket stall · San Lorenzo (Mercato Centrale)Get: Lampredotto panino; bollito sandwich or ribollita if tripe is not your thing
- I Fratellinicounter · Via dei Cimatori (Centro)Get: Panini (prosciutto and truffle, bresaola, mozzarella and tomato) with a glass of wine
- Trattoria Da Burdefamily-run · Peretola (near the airport)Get: Ribollita, pasta e fagioli, pappa al pomodoro
- Trattoria Baldinifor ribollitaGet: Ribollita
- Il Trippaio del Porcellinofor lampredotto · Mercato NuovoGet: Lampredotto sandwich
The market
Market hall. Tuscan produce, lampredotto, food counters
The line worth it
Get: The La Paradiso (mortadella, pistachio cream, stracciatella)
Expect: 30 to 60 min. Beat it: Go early in the morning or late afternoon.
In season this November
Schiacciata con l'uva (grape flatbread) · Porcini and truffle · Olio nuovo (new olive oil)
How it works here
Tip: Not expected. Check for coperto or servizio on the bill; otherwise round up or leave a few euros.
Book: Book dinner a day or two out (weeks for the famous places); bars and pizza al taglio are walk-in.
When locals eat: Lunch 12:30-2:30pm, dinner from 7:30pm; kitchens close between.