The Lyon food cheat sheet

The dish to eat
A light, soufflé-like dumpling of pike, baked in a rich crayfish (Nantua) sauce.
Best at Daniel et Denise, Rue de Créqui, 3rd arrondissement. Get: Quenelle de brochet, sauce Nantua, and the pâté en croûte
Five places, and what to order
- Chez Paulinstitution · 1st arr. (Croix-Rousse slopes)Get: Pike quenelle, andouillette or tripe, plus a big shared salad
- Nafascounter · 1st arr.Get: Falafel, shawarma and dips with pitta
- Les Frères Bariozbakery · 6th arr.Get: Pesto-mozzarella focaccia, croissant, mille-feuille
- Le Café des Fédérationsfor quenelle de brochet · Rue Major Martin, 1st arrondissementGet: The quenelle and the set bouchon menu
- Au Petit Bouchon Chez Georgesfor quenelle de brochet · Rue du Garet, Presqu'îleGet: Quenelle de brochet with lobster sauce
The market
Covered market. Charcuterie, cheese, quenelles
The line worth it
Get: Praline brioche
Expect: Weekend lines. Beat it: Go early.
How it works here
Tip: Service is included; leave a euro or two, or up to 5% for a great meal.
Book: Book bistros a few days out and the famous ones weeks ahead; cafes and bakeries are walk-in.
When locals eat: Lunch noon-2pm, dinner from 7:30pm; kitchens close between, and many shut Sunday and Monday.