Oaxaca · Mexico
The Oaxaca food cheat sheet
One page from Chef Amazing · November 2026
The dish to eat
A dark, glossy sauce of burnt chilies, spices, nuts, seeds, plantain and chocolate, over turkey or chicken.
Best at Las Quince Letras, Centro, Calle Abasolo. Get: Mole negro de fandango with turkey (guajolote)
Five places, and what to order
- Tlayudas Doña Flaviastreet food · ReformaGet: Tasajo tlayuda or the chapulín (grasshopper) tlayuda, with horchata
- Memelas Doña Valestreet food · CosijoezaGet: Memelas with tasajo or egg and chile morita salsa; chocolate de agua to drink
- El Lechoncito de Orocounter · CentroGet: Suckling-pig torta with chicharrón and green salsa
- Restaurante Catedralfor mole (negro, coloradito, amarillo) · CentroGet: Mole negro or amarillo
- Tlayudas La Chinitafor tlayuda · Centro HistóricoGet: Classic tlayuda with quesillo, beans and meat
The market
Covered market. Grilled meats, tlayudas, chocolate
The line worth it
Get: Pick your meat, have it grilled, and eat it with tortillas and salsa
Expect: Busy at lunch. Beat it: Go at noon.
In season this November
Pan de muerto and mole negro (Dia de Muertos table)
How it works here
Tip: Leave 10-15% at restaurants; a few pesos at taco stands.
Book: Book the tasting menus weeks out; taquerias, fondas and markets are walk-in.
When locals eat: Comida (the big meal) 2-5pm; tacos al pastor are a night thing; dinner from 8pm.