Summer Squash Pasta with Lemon, Basil and Toasted Breadcrumbs

Summer Squash Pasta with Lemon, Basil and Toasted Breadcrumbs

This is vegetables-first pasta at its simplest: sweet summer squash cooked until just caramelized, tossed with a bright lemon and herb sauce made from the pasta water itself. The crunchy toasted breadcrumbs add the texture that makes every bite interesting. It is the kind of dish that tastes like the season without asking much of you.

You need

• 1 pound (450 g) short pasta, such as fusilli or gemelli
• 1 1/2 pounds (680 g) summer squash and zucchini, cut into half-moons about 1/4 inch (6 mm) thick
• 1/4 cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
• 3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
• 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 cup (30 g) coarse fresh breadcrumbs
• Zest of 1 lemon plus 1 tablespoon juice
• 1/2 cup (15 g) torn fresh basil leaves
• 1/2 cup (50 g) finely grated Parmesan, plus more for serving

Method

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it generously (it should taste like the sea). Cook the pasta 1 minute short of the package time.
2. While the water heats, toast the breadcrumbs. Warm 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a small skillet over medium heat, add the breadcrumbs and a pinch of salt, and stir for 3 to 4 minutes until deep golden and crisp. Tip them onto a plate and set aside.
3. Heat 3 tablespoons of olive oil in a large wide skillet over medium-high heat, about 2 minutes. Add the squash in a single layer with a pinch of salt. Leave it alone for 2 to 3 minutes until the bottoms are browned, then stir and cook 3 to 4 more minutes until tender and charred in spots. Look for golden edges, not mush.
4. Lower the heat to medium, add the garlic and red pepper flakes, and cook for about 1 minute until the garlic smells sweet and just turns pale gold.
5. Using tongs, lift the pasta straight from the pot into the skillet, along with about 1 cup (240 ml) of the cooking water. Toss over medium heat for 1 to 2 minutes, until the water turns creamy and coats the pasta.
6. Off the heat, add the lemon zest and juice, the basil, the Parmesan, and a good grind of black pepper. Toss vigorously until glossy. Add a splash more pasta water if it looks dry.
7. Divide among warm bowls, scatter with the toasted breadcrumbs, add a little more Parmesan and a drizzle of olive oil, and serve right away.