Roasted Tomato and Fennel Ragu with Hand-Rolled Pici

Roasted Tomato and Fennel Ragu with Hand-Rolled Pici

This is the project dish: slow-roasted tomatoes and fennel cooked down into a deep, sweet ragu, served over a rustic hand-rolled pasta. Rolling the pasta is a bit of work, but the texture is worth it, and the sauce can be made a day ahead. It is vegetables leading the plate, with a little patience doing the rest.

You need

• For the pasta: 2 cups (250 g) all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
• For the pasta: 1 teaspoon fine salt
• For the pasta: 3/4 cup (180 ml) warm water, about 110 F (43 C), plus more as needed
• For the ragu: 2 pounds (900 g) ripe plum tomatoes, halved lengthwise
• For the ragu: 2 medium fennel bulbs, cut into 1/2-inch (1 cm) wedges, fronds reserved
• For the ragu: 1 large red onion, cut into wedges
• For the ragu: 6 tablespoons (90 ml) extra-virgin olive oil, divided
• For the ragu: 1 teaspoon fennel seeds, lightly crushed
• For the ragu: Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• For the ragu: 4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
• For the ragu: 1/2 cup (120 ml) dry white wine
• For the ragu: 1 tablespoon tomato paste
• For the ragu: 1/2 cup (50 g) finely grated Parmesan, plus more for serving
• For the ragu: 1/4 cup (10 g) chopped fresh basil or parsley

Method

1. Make the dough. Mix the flour and salt on a clean counter, make a well, and add the warm water a little at a time, mixing with your fingers until a shaggy dough forms. Knead 8 to 10 minutes until smooth and springy, adding water a teaspoon at a time only if it cracks. Wrap in plastic and rest at room temperature for 30 minutes.
2. Roast the vegetables. Heat the oven to 400 F (205 C). On a large sheet pan, toss the tomatoes (cut side up), fennel, and onion with 4 tablespoons of the olive oil, the crushed fennel seeds, 1 teaspoon salt, and black pepper. Roast 40 to 50 minutes, until the tomatoes have collapsed and the fennel is deeply browned at the edges.
3. Build the sauce. Scrape the roasted vegetables and their juices into a heavy pot. Mash the tomatoes with a spoon. Warm the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a skillet over medium heat, add the garlic and cook 1 minute, then stir in the tomato paste and cook 2 minutes until brick-colored. Add the wine, scrape up the browned bits, and simmer until reduced by half, about 3 minutes. Pour everything into the pot.
4. Simmer the ragu. Cook uncovered over low heat for 45 minutes, stirring now and then, until thick and jammy and the fennel has melted into the sauce. Taste and adjust salt. Keep warm, or refrigerate for up to 2 days.
5. Roll the pici. Divide the dough into 4 pieces and keep the rest covered. On a floured counter, roll one piece under your palms into a rope about 1/4 inch (6 mm) thick. Cut it into 8-inch (20 cm) lengths, then roll each piece gently between your palms and the counter, from the center outward, until it is a thin spaghetti about 1/8 inch (3 mm) thick. Dust with flour and lay on a floured tray. Repeat.
6. Cook the pasta. Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil. Cook the pici for 3 to 4 minutes, until tender but still with a bite. Reserve 1/2 cup (120 ml) of cooking water, then drain.
7. Finish and serve. Reheat the ragu over medium heat with a splash of pasta water. Add the drained pici and toss for 1 minute until coated. Off the heat, stir in the Parmesan and chopped herbs. Serve in warm bowls with reserved fennel fronds and extra Parmesan.