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The calçotada: sweet Catalan onions charred black over vine cuttings, wrapped in newspaper to steam, then peeled and dipped in romesco. Thick spring onions or baby leeks on any grill work outside of calçot season.
24 calçots, or 3 bunches thick spring onions, or 12 baby leeks
For the romesco: 2 dried ñora peppers (or 1 ancho), soaked in hot water 20 minutes
2 ripe tomatoes
1 head garlic
50 g (1/3 cup) toasted almonds
30 g (1/4 cup) toasted hazelnuts
1 slice country bread, toasted
1 tbsp sherry vinegar
1 tsp smoked paprika
120 ml (1/2 cup) olive oil
1 tsp salt
Newspaper or foil for wrapping
How to make it
Roast for the romesco (25 min): Roast the tomatoes and the garlic head (top cut off, wrapped in foil) at 200°C (400°F) or on the grill until soft, 20 to 25 minutes. Squeeze out the garlic; peel the tomatoes.
Blend the romesco (5 min): Scrape the flesh from the soaked peppers. Blend the peppers, tomatoes, garlic, nuts, bread, vinegar, paprika and salt, then drizzle in the oil until thick and coarse. Taste for salt and vinegar.
Char the onions (10 to 15 min): Over a very hot fire, lay the calçots in a single layer and grill, turning, until the outer layers are completely blackened, 10 to 15 minutes. Spring onions take 5 to 8 minutes.
Steam (10 min): Wrap them in a bundle of newspaper or foil for 10 minutes so they finish softening inside.
Eat (as long as it takes): Hold each by the green top, pull off the charred outside with the other hand, dip the white heart in romesco, and lower it into your mouth. Then grill lamb chops and sausages over the same fire.
Tips
Wear a bib; it's part of it.
Blackened is right: the char comes off with the outer layer.
Romesco is also great with grilled fish and chicken.