The dish to eat in São Paulo · Brazil

Feijoada

Feijoada in São Paulo

Photo: Melsj, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons · source

Black beans stewed with smoked and salted pork, served with rice, collard greens, farofa and orange.

São Paulo keeps a weekly ritual: Wednesdays and Saturdays are feijoada days, long lunches of black beans, pork and caipirinhas.

Where to eat itCook it at home

Where to eat it: the best three in São Paulo

  1. Bolinha

    Jardim Europa

    Order: The full feijoada, served on Wednesdays and Saturdays

    A São Paulo institution since 1946, famous for nothing so much as its feijoada.

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  2. Bar da Dona Onça

    Edifício Copan, República

    Order: Feijoada on Saturdays (and the bar snacks)

    Janaína Rueda's bar in Niemeyer's Copan building, a temple of Brazilian comfort food.

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  3. Consulado Mineiro

    Pinheiros

    Order: Feijoada and the Minas Gerais specialties

    A busy Minas-style restaurant that serves feijoada every day.

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All three are on Chef Amazing’s list The best feijoada in São Paulo, which you can save and take with you.

Cook it at home: Feijoada completa

Serves 8Time 4 hr, plus overnight soaking

Soak the beans and desalt the salted meats overnight. The beans simmer with smoked meats until creamy; garlic, onion and bay go in at the end. The side dishes are part of the dish.

Pans and tools

You’ll need

Steps

  1. Drain the beans and put them in a large pot with 3 quarts (3 l) water and the bay leaves. Bring to a boil and simmer 45 minutes.
  2. Add the carne seca, smoked ribs and bacon. Simmer 1 hour, topping up with hot water to keep everything covered.
  3. Add the sausage and fresh pork and simmer 1 hour more, until the beans are creamy and the meats tender.
  4. In a skillet, heat the oil and cook the onions 8 minutes until golden; add the garlic for 1 minute. Stir in 2 ladles of beans, mash them into the onions, and stir the mixture back into the pot. This thickens it. Simmer 15 minutes; season with salt and pepper.
  5. For the couve: heat the oil, add the garlic for 30 seconds, then the collard ribbons with a pinch of salt. Toss 2 to 3 minutes until bright green and just wilted.
  6. For the farofa: melt the butter, cook the onion until golden, add the manioc flour and toast, stirring, 5 minutes until sandy and golden. Salt.
  7. Lift the meats onto a platter, slicing the larger pieces. Serve the beans in a pot with rice, couve, farofa, orange slices and pepper sauce, and let everyone build their plate.
Chef’s tips

Find carne seca and linguiça at Brazilian markets, or use any good smoked sausage and salted beef.

The orange isn't decoration: it cuts the richness.

Feijoada tastes better the next day; reheat with a splash of water.

Contains: Milk.

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Picked October 2026 from what locals, food writers and the city’s own guides agree on. Places change; confirm hours before you go.

Chef Amazing · Will Travel for Food · São Paulo · The dish in every city