Mexico City's lunch: a soft bolillo or telera roll toasted on the griddle, spread with refried beans and mayo, piled with a crisp breaded steak, avocado, chipotles, tomato, onion and quesillo. The Cuadrilátero's giants stack every meat at once; start with one.
4 thin beef cutlets (milanesa), about 120 g (4 oz) each, pounded thin
Salt and pepper, 60 g (1/2 cup) flour, 2 eggs, beaten, 120 g (1 1/2 cups) dry breadcrumbs
Oil for frying
200 g (1 cup) refried beans, warm
4 tbsp mayonnaise
2 ripe avocados, sliced
4 to 6 canned chipotles in adobo, chopped (or pickled jalapeños)
2 tomatoes and 1/2 white onion, sliced thin
150 g (5 oz) Oaxaca cheese (quesillo) or mozzarella, pulled into strings
Shredded lettuce, butter
How to make it
Bread the steaks (10 min): Season the cutlets, then dredge in flour, dip in egg and press into the breadcrumbs.
Fry (10 min): Heat 1 cm (1/2 in) oil in a large skillet over medium-high and fry the cutlets 2 minutes a side until golden and crisp. Drain on a rack and salt.
Toast the rolls (4 min): Split the rolls, butter the cut sides and toast them on a griddle until golden. Lay the cheese on the bottom halves for the last minute so it starts to melt.
Spread (2 min): Spread the top halves with beans and mayonnaise.
Build: Layer the milanesa, avocado, chipotles, tomato, onion and lettuce on the cheese, close, press, and cut in half.
Tips
For a torta de chilaquiles, swap the steak for a heap of chilaquiles in green salsa.
The griddle-toasted roll is non-negotiable; it stops the beans soaking through.