Get: A cup of the gumbo ya-ya, then the barbecue shrimp (and a bib)
What to say
A bowl of the gumbo ya-ya, and the barbecue shrimp.
A Brennan family restaurant since 1979. Their gumbo ya-ya is the one New Orleanians name when you ask where to get a dark chicken-and-andouille gumbo in the Quarter.
The roux is everything: stir flour and oil for about 45 minutes until it's the color of dark chocolate. Don't leave it, and don't let it burn (black flecks mean start over).
3 lb (1.4 kg) bone-in chicken thighs, skin removed
2 1/2 quarts (2.4 l) chicken stock, warm
3 bay leaves, 1 tsp dried thyme
1 1/2 tsp Creole seasoning, 1/2 tsp cayenne, 1 tsp black pepper, salt to taste
1 bunch scallions, sliced, and 1/2 cup chopped parsley
Filé powder, hot sauce and cooked long-grain rice, to serve
How to make it
Brown the andouille in a large heavy pot over medium heat, 6 to 8 minutes; lift out. Season the chicken with salt and Creole seasoning and brown it in the fat in batches, 4 minutes a side; set aside.
Add the oil to the pot and heat over medium. Whisk in the flour. Cook, stirring constantly with a flat wooden spoon, for 40 to 50 minutes, lowering the heat if it smokes, until the roux is very dark brown and smells nutty.
Immediately add the onions, pepper and celery (this stops the roux cooking) and stir 8 to 10 minutes until soft. Add the garlic for 1 minute.
Gradually whisk in the warm stock, a ladle at a time at first, so the roux dissolves smoothly.
Add the chicken, sausage, bay, thyme, cayenne and black pepper. Bring to a boil, then simmer gently, uncovered, for 1 1/2 hours, skimming off the oil that rises.
Lift out the chicken, pull the meat from the bones in big pieces and return it to the pot. Simmer 15 minutes more. Taste for salt and heat.
Stir in the scallions and parsley. Serve in bowls over a scoop of rice, with filé (a pinch to each bowl, never boiled) and hot sauce at the table.
Pans and tools
Large heavy pot or Dutch oven (at least 7 quarts)
Flat wooden spoon
Ladle
Skimmer
Chef's tips
Have the trinity chopped and ready before you start the roux; you'll need it at once.
Gumbo is better the next day. Chill and lift off the fat.
For seafood gumbo, add shrimp, crab and oysters in the last 5 minutes instead of chicken.
Contains: wheat.
Our recipe from The dish in every city. Saved, it opens in Chef Amazing with a timeline, mise en place and what you already have.
Four more bowls in New Orleans
2
Turtle soup
Turtle soup
A photo like it: Wide Awake!, CC BY 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons (not of this bowl)
A dark, spicy roux soup of turtle meat, finished with sherry at the table.
Farmed turtle meat can be ordered from Louisiana seafood suppliers; ground veal or beef makes the classic 'mock' version. The sherry at the end is essential.
You need
1 1/2 lb (680 g) turtle meat or ground veal, chopped small
1/2 cup (115 g) butter
1/2 cup (65 g) flour
1 onion, 1 green bell pepper, 2 celery ribs, finely chopped
4 garlic cloves, minced
1 can (14 oz / 400 g) crushed tomatoes
2 quarts (1.9 l) beef or veal stock
2 bay leaves, 1 tsp thyme, 1/2 tsp cayenne
2 tbsp Worcestershire sauce
Juice of 1 lemon
1 cup (30 g) spinach, chopped
3 hard-boiled eggs, chopped
2 tsp salt
Dry sherry, to serve
How to make it
Brown the meat in 2 tbsp butter and set aside.
Melt the rest of the butter, whisk in the flour and cook, stirring, 15 minutes, to a peanut-butter brown roux.
Add the onion, pepper and celery and cook 8 minutes, then the garlic 1 minute.
Add the tomatoes, stock, herbs, cayenne, Worcestershire and meat, and simmer 1 hour, stirring now and then.
Add the lemon juice, spinach and eggs and simmer 10 minutes. Season.
Serve with a splash of sherry poured into each bowl.
Chef's tips
Keep the roux moving; a burnt roux has to be thrown out.
Contains: wheat, milk, eggs, celery..
Chef Amazing's own recipe, written for a home kitchen. Saved, it opens in Chef Amazing with a timeline, mise en place and what you already have.
3
Yaka mein
Yakamein
Photo: Gary Stevens, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons · source
Spaghetti and beef in a salty, spicy soy broth with a boiled egg and green onion: the 'Old Sober' the second lines run on.
Ms. Linda Green, the Yakamein Lady
Get: A cup of yakamein, with hot sauce
What to say
One yakamein, please.
New Orleans' best-known yakamein cook sells it at Sunday second lines, Jazz Fest and pop-ups; her schedule is on her Instagram.
Sundays in second-line season (fall to spring); check her Instagram first.
Part Chinese-American, part Creole, all hangover cure. The broth is beef, soy and Creole seasoning; the noodles are plain spaghetti.
You need
2 lb (900 g) beef chuck or brisket
3 quarts (2.8 l) water
1 onion, quartered, 4 garlic cloves
3 tbsp Creole seasoning
1/3 cup (80 ml) soy sauce
2 tbsp Worcestershire sauce
1 lb (450 g) spaghetti
6 hard-boiled eggs, halved
6 green onions, sliced
Hot sauce and ketchup, to serve
How to make it
Simmer the beef with the onion, garlic and 2 tbsp Creole seasoning in the water 2 1/2 hours, until tender.
Lift out the beef and chop or shred it. Season the broth with the soy, Worcestershire and the rest of the Creole seasoning; it should be salty and bold.
Cook the spaghetti and drain.
Pile noodles and beef in each bowl, ladle over the broth, and top with an egg half and green onion.
Serve with hot sauce (and ketchup, if you want to do it the Seventh Ward way).
Chef's tips
Make the beef a day ahead; skimming the cold fat is easier.
Contains: wheat, soy, eggs, fish (worcestershire)..
Chef Amazing's own recipe, written for a home kitchen. Saved, it opens in Chef Amazing with a timeline, mise en place and what you already have.
4
Oyster and artichoke soup
Oyster-artichoke soup
A photo like it: Wilfredor, CC0 via Wikimedia Commons (not of this bowl)
Gulf oysters and artichoke hearts in a light, buttery cream soup, a New Orleans invention.
Get: A cup of oyster-artichoke soup and a cup of turtle soup, then the trout amandine
What to say
A cup of the oyster-artichoke, please.
A Mid-City neighborhood Creole-Italian restaurant since 1932; critic Tom Fitzmorris put its oyster-artichoke soup on his list of the area's best dishes.
A clear, fragrant beef broth simmered for hours with charred onion, ginger and warm spices, poured over rice noodles and paper-thin raw beef. Inspired by the beef noodle soup at Le Colonial in Houston.
You need
2 lb (900 g) beef oxtail, cut in sections
2 lb (900 g) beef marrow or knuckle bones
2 medium yellow onions (about 1 lb), halved and left unpeeled
5 quarts (4.7 liters) cold water, plus more for parboiling
3 tablespoons fish sauce, plus more to taste
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1 tablespoon sugar
1 lb (450 g) dried flat rice noodles (banh pho)
8 oz (225 g) beef tenderloin, trimmed and sliced paper thin
1 small white onion, very thinly sliced
2 scallions, thinly sliced
2 cups bean sprouts
1 cup Thai basil leaves
1/2 cup cilantro sprigs
1 jalapeno, thinly sliced
3 limes, cut into wedges
Hoisin sauce and sriracha for the table (3 tablespoons each)
How to make it
Put the oxtail and bones in the stockpot, cover with cold water by 2 inches, and bring to a boil over high heat. Boil hard for 10 minutes while gray scum rises, then drain and rinse every piece under cold water. Scrub out the pot.
Heat the broiler with a rack 4 inches from the element. Broil the onion halves and ginger on the baking sheet for 10 minutes, turning once, until blackened in spots and soft. Cool, peel off the loose skin, and rinse.
Toast the star anise, cinnamon, cloves, coriander and fennel in the dry skillet over medium heat for 2 minutes, until fragrant. Tie them into cheesecloth.
Return the bones to the clean pot with the 5 quarts cold water, charred onion, ginger and the spice bundle. Bring to a boil over high heat, about 20 minutes, skimming off foam.
Reduce the heat to low so the surface barely trembles. Simmer partly covered for 3 hours, skimming now and then, and lift out the spice bundle after the first hour so it does not turn bitter.
Lift the oxtail onto a plate. When cool enough to handle, pull the meat off the bones in large pieces and set aside, returning the bones to the pot.
Strain the broth through the fine-mesh strainer into a clean pot, pressing lightly. Skim fat from the top with a ladle, then stir in the fish sauce, salt and sugar and taste, adding fish sauce until savory with a slight sweetness. Keep at a bare simmer.
About 40 minutes before serving, wrap the beef tenderloin and freeze it for 20 minutes to firm it up. Soak the dried noodles in warm tap water for 30 minutes, until pliable and white.
Slice the chilled beef against the grain as thin as paper. Arrange the sliced onion, scallions, sprouts, basil, cilantro, jalapeno and lime wedges on a platter.
Boil a large pot of water and cook the soaked noodles for 1 to 2 minutes, until tender but still springy. Drain and divide among 6 large bowls, then lay the shredded oxtail and raw beef slices on top.
Bring the broth to a rolling boil, then ladle at least 1 1/2 cups over each bowl; the heat cooks the raw beef to a blush pink within a minute. Serve with the garnish platter, hoisin and sriracha.
Pans and tools
12-quart stockpot
rimmed baking sheet
dry skillet
fine-mesh strainer
cheesecloth or tea ball for spices
large pot for noodles
sharp slicing knife
instant-read thermometer
Chef's tips
Common mistake: boiling the broth hard, which turns it cloudy. Keep it at a bare simmer and skim.
Make-ahead: the broth keeps 5 days refrigerated or 3 months frozen. The fat that hardens on top is easy to lift off.
Reheat the broth to a full boil before serving or the raw beef will not cook.
Swap: use beef shank or short rib for part of the oxtail, and gluten-free tamari-free hoisin is optional at the table.
Contains: fish, soy, wheat.
From The Best 100: our home version, inspired by Le Colonial, Houston. Saved, it opens in Chef Amazing with a timeline, mise en place and what you already have.
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No. 1 checked October 28, 2026; the other four picked the same day from local guides and menus. Places change; if one has, tell us at hello@chefamazing.com.
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