The Tinned Fish 25 · No. 4 of 25

  1. Albacore in Mediterranean Olive Oil from St. Jude No.4Photo: Milk Street Store

    Tuna and mackerel · North America

    Albacore in Mediterranean Olive Oil

    From St. Jude · Washington

    Troll-caught, in olive oilNot spicy

    Joe and Joyce Malley's family boat, the St. Jude, trolls the Pacific for albacore one fish at a time, so there's almost no bycatch. The tuna is frozen at sea, hand-filleted and hand-packed, and it has won Good Food Awards.

    Tuna that flakes into big, clean, buttery pieces. Once you've had this, the cheap can tastes like cat food.

    Eat it withA tuna meltWhite beans and lemonPasta with capers

    St. Jude doesn't sell this tin direct here, so the button goes to Milk Street Store, a shop that carries it.

    Chef's quick recipe

    Albacore pasta with capers, lemon and parsley

    20 min · 2 servings · The tuna's own oil is the sauce. Capers and lemon keep it sharp; nothing is cooked hard.

    Save to my recipes

    You need

    • 1 tin St. Jude albacore in olive oil (about 6 oz / 170 g)
    • 6 oz (170 g) spaghetti
    • Salt
    • 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
    • 1 tbsp capers, rinsed
    • ¼ tsp red pepper flakes
    • Zest and juice of 1 lemon
    • ½ cup chopped parsley
    • Black pepper

    How to make it

    1. Cook the spaghetti in salted boiling water until al dente. Save ¾ cup of the water.
    2. Drain the tuna's oil into a wide pan (add a splash of olive oil if it's under 2 tbsp). Warm over medium-low, add the garlic, capers and pepper flakes and cook 2 minutes, until fragrant.
    3. Add the pasta and ½ cup of pasta water. Toss for a minute until the oil and water come together.
    4. Off the heat, add the tuna in big flakes, the lemon zest and juice and the parsley. Toss once or twice so the tuna stays in pieces.
    5. Season with black pepper and serve.

    Chef's own recipe, in our words, built around the tin. It isn't St. Jude's.

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← No. 3 Ekone Oyster Co.No. 5 Scout →

How to buy a good tin. Look for the fish named on the front (sardines, not "fish"), olive oil rather than "vegetable oil", and a cannery's name and town on the back.

Keep it. Most tins last years in a cool cupboard, and sardines in oil get better with a year or two. Anchovies are the exception: keep them in the fridge.

Serve it. Warm oily fish a little (stand the closed tin in hot tap water for 5 minutes). Chill shellfish in escabeche for 10 minutes. Always keep the oil: it's the sauce.

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