The Tinned Fish 25 · No. 4 of 25
Tuna and mackerel · North America
From St. Jude · Washington
Joe and Joyce Malley's family boat, the St. Jude, trolls the Pacific for albacore one fish at a time, so there's almost no bycatch. The tuna is frozen at sea, hand-filleted and hand-packed, and it has won Good Food Awards.
Tuna that flakes into big, clean, buttery pieces. Once you've had this, the cheap can tastes like cat food.
St. Jude doesn't sell this tin direct here, so the button goes to Milk Street Store, a shop that carries it.
Chef's quick recipe
20 min · 2 servings · The tuna's own oil is the sauce. Capers and lemon keep it sharp; nothing is cooked hard.
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How to buy a good tin. Look for the fish named on the front (sardines, not "fish"), olive oil rather than "vegetable oil", and a cannery's name and town on the back.
Keep it. Most tins last years in a cool cupboard, and sardines in oil get better with a year or two. Anchovies are the exception: keep them in the fridge.
Serve it. Warm oily fish a little (stand the closed tin in hot tap water for 5 minutes). Chill shellfish in escabeche for 10 minutes. Always keep the oil: it's the sauce.
Know a tin we missed?
A small cannery doing one thing really well? Tell us at hello@chefamazing.com and we'll open one.St. Jude didn't pay to be here. Order goes straight to Milk Street Store. The recipe is Chef's own, in our words.
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