New cookbooks landing, a Copenhagen restaurant gets its third star, and the internet still won't quit protein
Every October the cookbook tables get heavy again, and this one is heavier than most, Ottolenghi and Ina and Fuchsia Dunlop all showing up inside the same two weeks like they planned it. Overseas there was an actual shake-up at the top of Michelin's Nordic list, plus a very long-awaited sushi reopening in London. And the thing people keep making at home hasn't changed much, it's just gotten more protein in it.
Dunlop's latest organizes Chinese cooking around her five core tastes rather than region or ingredient, which is a different way into a cuisine she's been translating for English-speaking cooks for two decades. It's just out, released October 20, and arrives from someone whose earlier books are already considered foundational for home cooks tackling Chinese food seriously.
Buy it this week, before the Christmas cookbook crush buries it on the table.
See the book and two recipes →
A sequel to the book that convinced a generation of home cooks that weeknight dinner could still taste like a restaurant, back with another round of short-ingredient, big-flavor recipes. Released October 6, and the original Simple is one of the most leaned-on cookbooks of the last decade, so expectations here are not small.
Preorder or grab it at the shop, it'll be the gift book of the season by November.
See the book and two recipes →
Another entry in the Barefoot Contessa shelf, out October 20, leaning into the pared-back, fewer-ingredients cooking Garten has been promoting in her last few books. It's one of the most preordered titles of the season across multiple bookstores tracking fall releases.
Good one to put on a list for someone who already owns six of her other books.
At the Michelin Guide Nordic Countries ceremony, Kadeau Copenhagen was promoted from two stars to three, run by self-taught chef Nicolai Nørregaard since the restaurant opened in 2011. It makes Copenhagen home to three three-star restaurants total, and the city now holds 31 stars across 21 restaurants, more than any other Nordic capital.
Book Kadeau months out, three-star promotions do not make tables easier to get.
Sushi master Endo Kazutoshi has opened a ten-seat omakase counter in Chelsea called Juno, with a listening bar upstairs, after his old Rotunda space closed following a fire. London's sushi-obsessed diners have been waiting on this one since the fire, and the new room finally opened October 1.
Start trying for a reservation now, ten seats will not stay easy to get.
Chef Elena Reygadas' Rosetta, which started out leaning Italian and has moved steadily toward her own country's traditions over the years, placed No. 96 on this year's World's 50 Best extended ranking. The 51-100 list was only published this week, part of the lead-up to the main 50 Best ceremony.
If you're in Roma Norte, it's worth planning dinner around rather than walking in.
Cottage cheese keeps showing up whipped into a pasta sauce, baked into flatbread, or churned into a stand-in for ice cream, all chasing the same thing: extra protein without much extra effort. It's the trend that's stuck around longest from the recent wave of high-protein cooking videos, outlasting most of what came before it.
Try the whipped version on toast before committing to the pasta sauce, it's the easiest entry point.
Thomas Straker's four-year-old London restaurant just opened its first US outpost, taking over the old Lucky Strike space on Grand Street. It opened October 10 and is the first stateside landing for a chef with a real following in London.
Book now, it just opened and SoHo rooms like this fill fast.
Delmonico's Hospitality Group opened this all-day bakery and bistro with an open kitchen, baking bread and focaccia on site and building the rest of the menu, including sourdough pasta, around it. It opened last week and serves breakfast through dinner six days a week, a rare full-day bakery commitment uptown.
Go for breakfast on a weekday, watch the bakers shape loaves from the counter.
The Danish coffee import known for its cardamom buns opened a new cafe and bakery inside Lantern House. It opened last weekend, so the buns are fresh off the plane, so to speak.
Swing by on a weekend morning before the coffee line forms.
Daniel Humm opened his first restaurant under his own name in the West Village on October 10, a wood-fired, a la carte spot that trades the formality of Eleven Madison Park for something more casual, with interiors by Pierre Yovanovitch and a hand painted ceiling by Francesco Clemente. It is the chef's most personal project yet after two decades running EMP, and early reviews call it a bid for institution status rather than a one season trend.
A new SoHo bakery called RYE is selling a single naturally leavened rye loaf for $60, and the lines it has drawn are now the subject of their own debate about whether the price can survive past the novelty phase. The loaf went viral this month and the question everyone is asking out loud is whether people keep paying once the curiosity wears off.
The Danish bakery's signature bun just landed at Lantern House this past weekend, fresh off its first NYC opening. It is the debut week, so you are getting the bakery at its most careful, before routine sets in.
One of the essential dishes on Daniel Humm's new a la carte menu, built around wood fire and shareable, less fussy plates than his tasting menu work at Eleven Madison Park. The restaurant just opened and this is the dish people are already flagging as the one to order.
A Japanese udon restaurant from longtime friends Juan Carlos Vidal and chef Tsuyoshi Nishioka, who previously worked together at Japanese restaurants in Boston. It opens October 21, so by the time you read this the noodles are already on the table.
Check for a soft open window before the full menu locks in.
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