Chef's daily · Wednesday, October 28

Dubai's Orfali Bros make two-star history

A homegrown Middle Eastern kitchen breaks the three-star ceiling's neighbor, plus a trompo in three cities and a book on salt turning 25.

The Gulf had its big night this month, Mexico City keeps arguing about whose pastor is best, and somewhere a trompo is always spinning. Here is what landed in the last few weeks, away from the usual coasts.

Around the world

Around the world

Orfali Bros earns a second Michelin star
Dubai

The fifth Michelin Guide Dubai came out this month and Orfali Bros moved up to two stars, the first restaurant serving Middle Eastern food to reach that tier in the city. It happened October 6 at Atlantis The Royal, alongside two new one-star entries, Birch and KIGO.

Tokyo's ramen scene keeps splitting into micro-styles
Tokyo

The first half of 2026's ramen roundup shows shops specializing ever narrower, from a four-way tsukemen menu to a noodle factory that doubles as a ramen counter. Tsukemen Back to Back, from the team behind Ramen Break Beats, opened in Musashi-Koyama in June and has already built a following.

Aro
Mediterranean · Singapore

Asia's Best Female Chef of 2023, Johanne Siy, opened Aro this month in the old Esora space, after her previous restaurant Lolla closed earlier this year. It is one of several comeback openings crowding Singapore this October, alongside chef Takeshi Araki's new Ao.

See Aro →

One dish, three cities

Tacos al pastor
at El Vilsito · Mexico City

A Narvarte taqueria that runs as a mechanic shop by day and a trompo operation from 1pm to 5am, currently holding a Michelin Bib Gourmand. Order the pastor plain or with cheese.

See El Vilsito →

Shoyu ramen
at Ramen Shion · Tokyo

A Takadanobaba newcomer from a chef trained across the city's best kitchens, serving a clear, photo-ready shoyu and shio ramen alongside a limited tori paitan.

See Ramen Shion →

Tonkotsu ramen
at Ramen Hayashi · Shibuya

A minimalist Dogenzaka counter built around one bowl, a Tonkotsu Gyokai that blends long-simmered pork bone with dried seafood umami. Order the signature, nothing else on the menu competes for attention.

See Ramen Hayashi →

In New York

New this week

Delphine
French brasserie · NoMad · New York

A Parisian brasserie that just opened inside the Ace Hotel NoMad, with tableside martinis and the kind of menu that wants you to stay for two hours. It landed as part of a crowded wave of French openings this fall, alongside Brasserie Boulud and others, so comparisons are already flying.

Walk in, or try booking a week out while it's still new

See Delphine →

Worth trying

Mango sticky rice
at Ayada Thai, inside Chelsea Market · New York

A sweet, cold mango sticky rice that keeps showing up in NYC food roundups as the one worth the detour through the market crowds. Late-season mangoes are still good and it's a reliable antidote to the first cold week of the year.

Grab it to go, eat it outside before the market gets packed

See Ayada Thai, inside Chelsea Market →

Coming up

Harvest
Union Square · New York

An annual benefit for Union Square Park that brings together a long list of neighborhood restaurants, bars and cafes for one night of tastings. It's a once-a-year chance to sample a lot of Union Square dining in one place, and proceeds go back into the park.

Buy tickets ahead, it tends to sell out

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