Dinner in a horse stable, an hour from Lisbon

Comporta is rice fields, beaches and almost nothing else. Then there's this.

By Brian B.

Comporta is the part of Portugal people go to when they've already done Lisbon twice. Rice fields, empty beaches, storks on the telephone poles. We stayed at Sublime Comporta for a few days in October and ate our way around.

Cavalariça is in an old horse stable in the village. The chef, Bruno Caseiro, cooks Portuguese food like he's having fun with it, and the pastry chef, Filipa Gonçalves, makes sure you stay for dessert.

Start with the croquettes: cured meat inside, a clam mayo on the side. They're the thing people tell you about before you go, and they're right.

It's an hour and change from Lisbon. Worth the drive, and better if you don't have to drive back.

What to getThe cured-meat croquettes with clam mayo, then fish, then dessert.Good to knowIn Comporta village. Dinner; book ahead in summer. There's also a Cavalariça in Lisbon if you can't get out to the coast.

Going to Comporta one day?

Save Cavalariça, and the day around it

Chef keeps it in your places with what to get, and puts a whole day in Comporta in your Trips, Cavalariça at 8:30pm. Plus a real person's favorite place every morning. Free, no password.

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