1 hour 15 minutes, plus 1 to 24 hours salting · Serves 2 to 3
A photo like it (a steakhouse steak dinner) · William Cho (CC BY-SA 2.0) via Wikimedia Commons · source
How New York's old steakhouses do it at home: a thick porterhouse salted ahead, seared hard in cast iron, finished in a hot oven, rested, sliced off the bone and sent back to the table sizzling in butter, with the creamed spinach every steakhouse puts beside it.
1 porterhouse steak, 2 inches (5 cm) thick, about 2 1/2 lb (1.1 kg), dry-aged if you can get it
2 1/2 tsp kosher salt (about 1 tsp per pound of steak)
Freshly ground black pepper
1 tbsp neutral oil (grapeseed or canola)
3 tbsp unsalted butter, for the plate
Flaky salt, to finish
For the creamed spinach: 2 lb (900 g) fresh spinach, thick stems removed
2 tbsp unsalted butter
1 small shallot, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
1 tbsp all-purpose flour
1 cup (240 ml) whole milk
1/2 cup (120 ml) heavy cream
1/3 cup (30 g) finely grated Parmesan
A pinch of grated nutmeg
Salt and black pepper
How to make it
Salt ahead: pat the steak dry and salt it all over, edges too. Set it on a rack over a plate, uncovered, in the fridge for at least 1 hour and up to 24. The salt goes in and the surface dries, which is what gives you a crust.
Take the steak out 45 minutes before cooking. Heat the oven to 450°F (230°C) with a rack in the middle.
Make the spinach first. Blanch it in a big pot of salted boiling water for 30 seconds, drain, run under cold water, squeeze it very dry in a towel and chop it finely.
In a saucepan melt 2 tbsp butter over medium heat, cook the shallot and garlic 2 minutes until soft but not brown, stir in the flour and cook 1 minute. Whisk in the milk and cream a little at a time and simmer, stirring, 3 to 4 minutes until it coats a spoon. Stir in the spinach, Parmesan and nutmeg, season, and keep warm over the lowest heat.
Heat a 12-inch cast-iron pan over high heat for 5 minutes until it just smokes. Pat the steak dry again, oil it lightly and lay it in. Sear 3 to 4 minutes without moving it until deeply browned, flip, and sear 3 minutes more. Stand it on its bone edge for 1 minute to render the fat.
Move the pan to the oven. Roast 6 to 10 minutes, until an instant-read thermometer in the thickest part of the strip side reads 120°F (49°C) for medium-rare. The tenderloin side cooks faster, so check both.
Rest the steak on a board for 10 minutes. Meanwhile put a heatproof platter in the oven to get hot.
Cut the strip and the tenderloin off the bone, slice each across the grain about 1/2 inch thick, and lay the slices back against the bone on the hot platter. Drop the 3 tbsp butter on top with the resting juices, a few grinds of pepper and flaky salt, and bring it to the table sizzling with the spinach.
Tips
No thermometer? Press the thickest part: medium-rare feels like the base of your thumb when you touch thumb to middle finger.
Spoon the sizzling butter back over each slice as you serve it, the way the waiters do.